[Frankthedm]

Lets say one has the 6 color wheel colors [with a few brighter and darker versions there of] + brown, white and black. Which ones in which quantity would mix to a close approximation of GW's snakebite leather.

[Vaitalla]

I hit a fairly close match using twelve drops of MSP Clear Yellow, two drops of MSP Clear Red, and one drop of MSP Clear Green. Add the green sparingly because just a little too much will really corrupt the color. Mine turned out just a little lighter than Snakebite, but the same hue; if you want it a little darker, you could probably add just a hint of a pure deep brown (Muddy Brown, Ruddy Leather) without compromising the clarity of the color too much.

--Anne

[Frankthedm]

Vaitalla, on Oct 26 2005, 04:40 PM, said:

I hit a fairly close match using twelve drops of MSP Clear Yellow, two drops of MSP Clear Red, and one drop of MSP Clear Green. Add the green sparingly because just a little too much will really corrupt the color. Mine turned out just a little lighter than Snakebite, but the same hue; if you want it a little darker, you could probably add just a hint of a pure deep brown (Muddy Brown, Ruddy Leather) without compromising the clarity of the color too much.

--Anne

Cool, that particular hue was what i was hunting for.

[zbyshko]

Frankthedm, on Oct 26 2005, 03:19 PM, said:

Lets say one has the 6 color wheel colors [with a few brighter and darker versions there of] + brown, white and black. Which ones in which quantity would mix to a close approximation of GW's snakebite leather.

i tried to hammer a mix out myself, but ended up just buying liquitex raw sienna. i add in a little raw umber when i want it darker and some "off white" when i need it lighter - not a specific off-white really, bleach bone from GW, antique white from Plaid - whatever's handy.

i admit it isn't exactly what you were after for the basic mix colours but it may be of use to someone. the greatest use to me was the quantity of paint, since i use it for so much - the dark colour sand for the gladitorial arena, the middle tone for aged, unclean teeth, etc

thanks for listenin'

RWM

[Errex]

Hmmm. Firey Orange and Enchanted Blue might work too. Add Golden Yellow to match the tone, and black/white to modify brightness.

[Vaitalla]

Errex, on Oct 27 2005, 01:30 PM, said:

Hmmm. Firey Orange and Enchanted Blue might work too. Add Golden Yellow to match the tone, and black/white to modify brightness.

Depends on what base GW is using for its colors, and what other pigments are added. I would use Snot Green instead of the Enchanted Blue; Enchanted Blue does have yellow added to it, and white, but if they're using Pthalocyanine the blue will overpower the color even faster than the green. Adding black to modify the brightness will either grey or further green the color out; I suggested brown because the oxides, though coverage-intensive, will not mute the color like black will. Since Snakebite is a very intense and translucent color, you'll want to avoid adding black or white at all if you can get away with it. However, if you're using GW colors, why do you need to match it? You can just buy it!

--Anne

[Qwyksilver]

Wooo...since I read Wilcox's Y+B!=G, I actually can follow this conversation and understand it

[TaleSpinner]

Vaitalla, on Oct 27 2005, 02:57 PM, said:

Errex, on Oct 27 2005, 01:30 PM, said:

Hmmm. Firey Orange and Enchanted Blue might work too. Add Golden Yellow to match the tone, and black/white to modify brightness.

Depends on what base GW is using for its colors, and what other pigments are added. I would use Snot Green instead of the Enchanted Blue; Enchanted Blue does have yellow added to it, and white, but if they're using Pthalocyanine the blue will overpower the color even faster than the green. Adding black to modify the brightness will either grey or further green the color out; I suggested brown because the oxides, though coverage-intensive, will not mute the color like black will. Since Snakebite is a very intense and translucent color, you'll want to avoid adding black or white at all if you can get away with it. However, if you're using GW colors, why do you need to match it? You can just buy it!

--Anne

Do you get the feeling that Anne has some sort of experience with paints?

TS

[claymoore]

I realy dislike the names hobby paint makers use. They are so meaningless. If someone asked for a formula to create a Nickel Azo Yellow hue I wouldn't have a problem but Snakebite leather offers so little information about the color. Terms like Clear Red, Blue, Yellow tell me very little as well. Is clear blue a Phthalo Blue (Green shade), Clear Red a Naphthol Red or what? That's why I use a lot of artist colors for mixing. Then I know what is in the bottles.

[Errex]

Meh. Snakebite Leather is just a shade of ochre, a bit darkish, perhaps. There should be a TON of ways to get a similar hue depending on what's in one's paint box.

[Frankthedm]

claymoore, on Oct 27 2005, 12:40 PM, said:

I realy dislike the names hobby paint makers use. They are so meaningless. If someone asked for a formula to create a Nickel Azo Yellow hue I wouldn't have a problem but Snakebite leather offers so little information about the color. Terms like Clear Red, Blue, Yellow tell me very little as well. Is clear blue a Phthalo Blue (Green shade), Clear Red a Naphthol Red or what? That's why I use a lot of artist colors for mixing. Then I know what is in the bottles.

They choose the names so it is harder to do just this and so the paint names sound 'kewl'.

[Vaitalla]

claymoore, on Oct 27 2005, 05:40 PM, said:

I realy dislike the names hobby paint makers use. They are so meaningless. If someone asked for a formula to create a Nickel Azo Yellow hue I wouldn't have a problem but Snakebite leather offers so little information about the color. Terms like Clear Red, Blue, Yellow tell me very little as well. Is clear blue a Phthalo Blue (Green shade), Clear Red a Naphthol Red or what? That's why I use a lot of artist colors for mixing. Then I know what is in the bottles.

So true! Unfortunately, in the mini-painting world these days, people who know what a Pthalocyanine Green is are far rarer than those who understand what Snot Green is... Then again, the latter certainly is easier to spell!

Anyhoo, as for the clears, I can tell you that the blue is Pthalocyanine Blue (red, rather than green), the green is Pthalocyanine Green (blue) with a bit of what would probably equate to Cadmium Yellow Light (or whichever yellow would appear to be the purest, clearest yellow...I can never remember which ones have that orange or gold cast to 'em, haven't painted with artists' acrylics or oils in ages!), which would probably make it a Pthalocyanine Green (yellow). The Clear Yellow would be the aforementioned yellow in a pure state. The magenta is Quinacridone Magenta, I believe, though the color swatches online seem to equate it more to the Quinacridone Violet...possibly an error. Purple, no clue, can't remember what color Dioxazine Purple really is so dunno if I matched it! The Clear Red contains Quinacridone red pigment but after it's added to our red base paint it color-shifts; I think I recall it was closest to Pyrrole Red last I checked, I was trying to hit that line right between a cool red and a warm red. The upcoming brights, not sure about the orange or the plum but the viridian is a pure Pthaolocyanine Green. Ah well; not overly helpful, I know, but what can I say, except for the pthalos our pigments aren't named like artists' colors either!

--Anne

[Qwyksilver]

Quote

Purple, no clue, can't remember what color Dioxazine Purple really is

My tube (W&N Finity) of Dioxazine Purple is just called "Dioxazine Purple." The pigment is Carbozole Dioxazine, PV23.

I hate the Pthalo's, not the paints themselves, but just trying to spell the blasted name. I the color they give though.

[Vaitalla]

Qwyksilver, on Oct 28 2005, 11:40 AM, said:

I hate the Pthalo's, not the paints themselves, but just trying to spell the blasted name. I the color they give though.

You're going to love Clear Viridian, then. Pthalocyanine green (blue)--"peacock" green at its best! It's a gorgeous color.

--Anne

[claymoore]

Ah well; not overly helpful, I know, but what can I say, except for the pthalos our pigments aren't named like artists' colors either!

--Anne
[/quote]

That helps a lot. I use Hansa Yellow, Phthalo Green BS, Phthalo Blue GS, Naphthol Red, Quinacridone Magenta. Titanium White and Zinc White to mix the palette of colors I like. To increase opacity without changing the color value a broad series of neutral grays works with a minimal reduction in chroma. I'm not trying to put down paints with kewl names or triads, I happen to enjoy mixing my own colors.

Thanks!