NMM GOld And Steel
Posted 30 July 2004 - 04:40 AM
What types of mixes do you use?
How do you go about getting the reflictions where and depending on surface? I find it hard to know where to put the hotspots on larger surfaces specially.
My mix for gold righ now is Cobra leather Vallejo color
MIx with buckskin and vallejo gold yellow. Final highlight for hotspots of Sunblast yellow and dragon white.
For steel I just use armour gray and white and maybe some blue on larger surfaces.
Posted 30 July 2004 - 07:32 AM
Posted 30 July 2004 - 08:25 AM
For blue steel, I'd use GW's Deadly Nightshade, GW's Hideous Blue, Reaper Ice Blue or GW's Space Wolf Grey (depending on how intense I want the blue to be), and Reaper Dragon White and also white ink.
For gold, I've pretty much tried to follow Zaphod's recipe, basically using GW's Snakebite Leather and thinning with Reaper Dragon White. Sometimes I mix a middle tone out of GW's Vomit Brown, but all in all, it is a bit of a hassle.
I've tried to produce a bassy look using Reaper's Chestnut, Woodland and GW's Bleached Bone, but I'm still not sold on the hue.
I am itching to try some green metal these days, though.
Posted 30 July 2004 - 02:37 PM
Posted 30 July 2004 - 05:15 PM
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Posted 31 July 2004 - 05:47 AM
The more I paint NMM it seems that its like painting Gems were you are trying to fool the eye its a shiny surface tho I find it harder the bigger the surface.
Posted 31 July 2004 - 09:30 AM
Posted 31 July 2004 - 04:05 PM
In terms of gold, I'm still experimenting with it, at the moment I use GW Snakebite Leather highlighted with Vallejo Sand Light all the way up to white.
I always start with the midtone first, then shade, then the highlights.
The contrast seems to be one of the things that makes the NMM work or not work, I found that the higher the contrast, the better it looks.
Posted 01 August 2004 - 01:35 AM
Thats what I was thinking of doing when I get the tube to mix it into a vallejo bottle but all the ones I have are in use hmmm will have to look through theme and sacrefice one color for titanium white instead one I dont use much can put it into a empty reaper pot for the moment.
Posted 01 August 2004 - 06:12 AM
Posted 03 August 2004 - 03:05 PM
As Flynn stated, the best way to figure out where your "hot spots" (brightest highlights) will be is to put the primed mini under a strong light source and either take a pic or just make faint marks with thinned paint to serve as "guides". Remember that only extremely shiny and chrome surfaces have true hot spots; other treatments and types of metal, such as the brushed steel look you'll typically see on armor, will feature a highlight that is more diffused.
Simple guide to NMM:
1. Figure out where your strongest highlight is on a particular piece of metal (see above).
2. Immediately below (away from the light source) your strongest highlight will be an ultra-thin black (on cool-colored metals) or dark dark brown (on warm-colored metals) line. This is your darkest shadow. It is the juxtaposition of the brightest highlight next to the darkest shadow that makes the eye read an object as "shiny".
3. Moving away from the darkest shadow, you will blend up through dark grey/brown to a medium grey/brown to a light grey/tan to almost white again. The almost white is your secondary highlight, is located opposite your brightest highlight on the surface (which will put it opposite the light source, i.e. on the underside or backside of the piece of metal), and is meant to simulate light reflecting back at the shiny object from the environment around the mini. It is this secondary highlight, and its placement, that makes the eye read an object as "reflective".
So, brightest highlight, right under it the darkest shadow, blend back up to secondary highlight, repeat ad infinitum. Simplistic? Heck, yeah--that's why it works!
Posted 04 August 2004 - 01:34 AM
If you work on white, wash the mini with thinned down black ink then do the same.
Hope it works
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