#31
Posted 30 October 2012 - 09:13 PM
I've been using pretty thin paint since switching to a wet palette for layering and well painting in general.
so far i'm about 4 layers+quickshade for deepest shadows on the main parts.
0 dip 1 basecolor 2 base+highlight color 3 highlight color 4 highlight color+white(usually)
#32
Posted 30 October 2012 - 09:21 PM
#33
Posted 30 October 2012 - 09:27 PM
#34
Posted 03 November 2012 - 05:42 PM

I got it mostly done i think, tho it, well, feels sloppy..I'll have to look at it again in the am and try and clean up some of the lines and highlighting. Maybe I'm rushing it abit to get thru this one..
Not sure what to do with the rock shapes on the necklace thing on his back..feels like it needs something else..but might be fine once its dipped it will help shade it.
#35
Posted 04 November 2012 - 12:06 PM
With a good highlight and attention to the details it gives impressive results.
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#36
Posted 04 November 2012 - 03:54 PM
So I might try going back to straight washes after this unit is done on a figure and see how it compares.
#37
Posted 07 November 2012 - 09:14 PM
I'm anxious to do a different model in the army now after working on the same model in different poses for so long :) maybe a 2headed dog or something.
tried a different color background .blue brightens up the picture but not sure it looks better then the grey background.

Its nice to get the eyes right on the first try..well he's looking to the right, but at least he's not cross eyed or lopsided.
#38
Posted 09 November 2012 - 03:50 PM
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#39
Posted 10 November 2012 - 03:12 PM
now that I got my Back2Baseix Rack assembled got to work on the fifth druid. Think he's almost done..gonna just give it a once over in the AM with fresh eyes, clean up any errors and maybe brighten up some highlights.
#40
Posted 11 November 2012 - 10:41 AM
Its been making the quickshade thicker and last 3 times I've used it its had a skin formed on it that I needed to remove and its been noticeably more syrupy.
I got a real can of Turpentine at Lowes and thinned it down after removing the skin...much much better..its much smoother ..definitely appears to have a much thinner coat and didn't darken as much.. as well the the quickshade ran off the model much more smoother with less general pooling.
I don't think i thinned it to much but hopefully when it dries it leaves enough shading.i'll find out after it dries for a day or 2 and dull coating.
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#41
Posted 12 November 2012 - 07:31 PM
anyone think its to flat looking now?

I could try applying a brush on gloss sealer over those gold sections would bring out the luster in the gold/bronze sections maybe that would be enough.
Midway thru the 6th guy..trying for a blond Hair color ..it appears a bit light but I think the quick shade brown will bring it back to more a straw color

I should be done this guy by the weekend then its time to pick something new.
So These are the figures I have based and Primed for Orboros.No Warpwolves yet I'm STILL waiting for my LFGS to get some 1/8x1/16 magnets in for them.

So choices are Argus, Winter Argus, P Kaya, Lars and Epic Kaya. or Warpwolf Skinwalker unit of 5
Any one got a request which to do next?
#42
Posted 12 November 2012 - 07:58 PM
#43
Posted 12 November 2012 - 09:07 PM
2 headed dog!
I agree, after doing a unit you should shake it up a bit. Go for the Argus, then do a 'caster or solo, and then come back around for the warpwolf unit.
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#44
Posted 13 November 2012 - 11:10 AM
In keeping with the fall theme I'm going to attempt to do it like a Red wolf not a pure white wolf.
kinda like this coloring
#45
Posted 15 November 2012 - 11:59 AM
since its going to have many colors in it..the fur color is going to interfer with the typical colors used for shading and highlighting.
would you just dry brush layers of fur colors ontop of itself..or paint the shading and highlighting like it was normal cloth skin and blend it .
Then just do a coarse drybrush to finish it and add the effect of hair?
any ideas or inputs would be appreciated.
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