25 replies to this topic

[dispatchdave]

Ok, so I've always been pretty bad about cleaning up mold lines, but I'm really trying to do it right now.

I've noticed a problem when I use my small files... They tend to leave a pattern (looks kind of like fingerprints/crosshatching) on the metal. Is it because my files suck? Or is there a secret to not leaving a grain?

In addition to the files, I also use a hobby knife to scrape/cut mold lines, but it seems I always have to touch up bits with the files.

Also, what do people use to get those deep crevices? The very tip of my files will fit, but they tend to scrape other bits on the mini I would rather not touch.

Thanks for any help!
-Dave

[buglips*the*goblin]

Crosshatching is normal, if it's shallow. It should be invisible after priming. However, it should be noted that "proper" file use is to only go in one direction, and not back and forth (I completely disobey this suggestion, but there it is).

I get to what I can, and try to cover up the rest. Sometimes there's a seam you're just never going to reach. If you're lucky, that won't be in an obvious place.

[dispatchdave]

Cool. I'll try the one-way, see if it helps. A lot of it is shallow, I'm just paranoid about making it look good. Brigitte must have smooth legs! And, y'know, other bits.

ETA* - What about cleaning the files? What do y'all use?

[Argentee]

I've heard people use that putty teens use to stick posters to their walls. Need to buy some and try it.

[Serenity]

You can clean files with poster putty (reusable adhesive). Some people call it blue tack, but there are lots of colors and brands now.

If you really want to smooth things out, you can try liquid green stuff or some other modeling putty to go over the mold lines that are nearly impossible to file away. I usually use a Milliput wash if I see the problem before I prime. Milliput is nice because you can go over it with fine sandpaper after it has cured. If I don't see a line before priming, I most often use matte medium to try to cover it up, but it can take many layers to make them disappear sometimes.

I also have a very fine diamond file with a great point on it (actually, it's sold as a bead reamer) and some sanding needles. Before I got them, I used fine wet/dry sandpaper wrapped around a toothpick or a paperclip wire to do similar work. Really helpful for getting in those tight spots.

[Heisler]

I buff those scratches out with steel wool. Get the fine grade, but don't get anything that also has soap in it. I get my steel wool at Home Depot and Lowe's now. It can leave a real mess though as you rapidly create a small hill of steel wool "bits" from the rubbing action. So make sure there is nothing with wet paint on it nearby like a mini or a paint pallet.

[DSModels]

I rarely ever use files. In my experiance with plastic or metal, it's best to use your x-acto blade and scrap the seam off. It leaves a smooth polished seem and can be worked in overlaping scrapes to even shape it.

[dispatchdave]

I rarely ever use files. In my experiance with plastic or metal, it's best to use your x-acto blade and scrap the seam off. It leaves a smooth polished seem and can be worked in overlaping scrapes to even shape it.

I do this some, but often it is not enough by itself. Some pieces have *giant* mold lines. Of course, it might help if I sharpened the blades once in a while... or ever.

@Heisler: Good idea. I have lots of fine steel wool in the glassblowing studio.

[Doug Sundseth]

If the surface is smooth (shields without raised detail, some cloaks, some skin), you can smooth the surface after getting rid of the mold lines by burnishing. Burnishing tools are available from all the usual suspects (for example).

I also like to burnish the surfaces of surfaces that are intended to be smooth metal to remove any irregularities from the molding or casting process. It can make sword blades, for instance, look especially nice after painting.

[dispatchdave]

If the surface is smooth (shields without raised detail, some cloaks, some skin), you can smooth the surface after getting rid of the mold lines by burnishing. Burnishing tools are available from all the usual suspects (for example).

I also like to burnish the surfaces of surfaces that are intended to be smooth metal to remove any irregularities from the molding or casting process. It can make sword blades, for instance, look especially nice after painting.

I have lots of burrs for a dremel.... Too fast?

[Heisler]

yes, to fast, way to fast

[dispatchdave]

yes, to fast, way to fast

But my wife says she li.... Nevermind, family board. :)

[Doug Sundseth]

I have lots of burrs for a dremel.... Too fast?

Felt polishing brushes can work if you use polishing grit. But sanding, cutting, or grinding bits are really only useful for launching miniatures across the room. Sprays of blood from your fingers are optional.

[dispatchdave]

I have lots of burrs for a dremel.... Too fast?

Felt polishing brushes can work if you use polishing grit. But sanding, cutting, or grinding bits are really only useful for launching miniatures across the room. Sprays of blood from your fingers are optional.

But it gives it that "Real blood" look....

Actually, I have all of that. One of the nice things about marrying into a glassblowing family is all the really neat toys they have. I'll give the felt pad/grit method a shot. Patience is not my best virtue.

[buglips*the*goblin]

I have lots of burrs for a dremel.... Too fast?

Felt polishing brushes can work if you use polishing grit. But sanding, cutting, or grinding bits are really only useful for launching miniatures across the room. Sprays of blood from your fingers are optional.

When my bathroom floor was being replaced last year (I found a genesis garden of mushrooms underneath) we had to use a hand-held cutter that I nicknamed "The Fingernator". Nobody lost any digits to it, but that thing looked mighty hungry. It lurks still, waiting for its chance . . . eager for the taste of man-flesh.