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Cheapest kolinsky sable brushes?


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#16 Pingo

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Posted 11 October 2012 - 03:47 AM

I'll also say that a slightly larger brush, like a size 1 or even 2, tends to work very well. It's the point, not the overall brush size, that matters, and a good kolinsky sable brush will really hold a fine point. However, a larger brush will hold more paint, so that one has to charge it with paint less often and can concentrate on the painting. A larger brush is faster.

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#17 Boussole

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Posted 11 October 2012 - 06:13 AM

I've used both the W&N Series 7 and Watercolor brushes and I've gotta say that I much prefer the Series 7. The Watercolor brushes just don't hold the point/shape as well and it's much more difficult to get those fine details done because of it.

Also, if you or someone you know is a student you can get a discount card for Dick Blick which could save you some cash.

#18 Hellcow

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Posted 11 October 2012 - 07:20 AM

I'm hoping to limit myself to the included brushes when I start the L2P series, especially for metallics. I don't want to sully my good brush with metal flake! Not much help until I get to that, I know...

As far as brushed go, I went through $50 of cheap brushes before I finally broke down and bought a W&N Series 7 size 2 brush that I've used for almost everything since (I used a Series 7 size 0 for about 2% of my last mini). The difference in quality is striking, and if you take care of them (get some master's brush soap and use it) they will last you for a long time.

High quality brushes are a better value over time. They will last longer, thus cost less; and the time you spend using them will be a superior experience. Cheap brushes aren't worth the money imo.


I really wish I had had this advice back when I first started painting minis. Cheap brushes get way too expensive when they don't even last for 1 mini without fraying or getting that annoying 'hook' at the end.

I've been using a sable brush I got from Micheal's for the last few weeks and have painted over a dozen minis with it now - still no signs of damage. I can't wait to get a high quality Series 7 or 8404 - they're on my Xmas wish list!
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#19 Heisler

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Posted 11 October 2012 - 09:01 AM

This is something that a lot of us have been preaching a long time. Some of the hardest converts though were the people that I paint with in our monthly CMPA workshop here in Denver. The message also varies depending on which forum you are on. There is always someone advocating the use of cheap brushes till you get "better" but the issue there is that you end up having re-learn everything when you start using a good brush because you built up so many bad habits compensating for the cheap brush that you learned with. My mantra for all the beginners we teach in our classes at the local conventions or the monthly workshops (2nd Saturday, Atomic Games, Golden CO, 3rd Sunday, Mythplaced Treasures, and 4th Saturday Gamers Haven, CO Springs):

Buy the best brush you can afford, a good tool will last a long time (Dickblick is your friend and has great customer service)
Learn to paint with the largest brush possible (my primary brush is a DaVinci Maestro #1 and I occasionally go down to a 0)
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#20 dispatchdave

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Posted 11 October 2012 - 10:00 AM

I have to second using the largest brush you are comfortable/competent with. I have a tendency to use tiny brushes, and it takes for*ever*. Time for bigger brushes.

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#21 CashWiley

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Posted 11 October 2012 - 10:16 AM

Ali McVey mentioned using a pair of #2s for her 2-brush method, so I bought a couple and LOVE them. They have big reservoirs and razor sharp tips. The only downside is that the wider body can touch the sides things when you're reaching into recesses, I keep forgetting to switch to a smaller brush to do things like underarms. There's a lot more surface area to touch on an unintended surface, so you have to develop an awareness for that...which I have yet to do!

I'm still in the early phases of my Ogre WIP, but I'm pretty sure I'll be able to get most of it with the #2. I spend a lot more time painting and a lot less worrying about keeping paint on the brush; combined with the wet palette it's really let me focus on painting more.

#22 buglips*the*goblin

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Posted 11 October 2012 - 11:48 AM

This is something that a lot of us have been preaching a long time. Some of the hardest converts though were the people that I paint with in our monthly CMPA workshop here in Denver. The message also varies depending on which forum you are on. There is always someone advocating the use of cheap brushes till you get "better" but the issue there is that you end up having re-learn everything when you start using a good brush because you built up so many bad habits compensating for the cheap brush that you learned with.


*waves*

Right here, right here! I was one of those hard to convert people who advocated the cheapies . . . right up until I used my first W&N Series 7.

Then I was all like: "Oh. I see. This is what they are talking about. I am sold."

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#23 ced1106

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Posted 11 October 2012 - 03:46 PM

More votes for WN7 *and* a good supplier of brushes if you're in the UK
http://www.warseer.c...s-dodgy-brushes

#24 Caffiene

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Posted 11 October 2012 - 04:24 PM

More votes for WN7 *and* a good supplier of brushes if you're in the UK
http://www.warseer.c...s-dodgy-brushes


Hmm. Im not in the UK, but the ArtiFolk site mentioned there seems to have very reasonable international shipping. It possibly comes out cheaper than buying in-store here in Australia... and certainly easier to find what I want.

Thanks for the link :)
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#25 Gryfter_92

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Posted 11 October 2012 - 11:33 PM

Hhhmmmmmm.......so using the 1/4 in paint sponges from lowes probably wasn't the best idea huh???? That does explain why my minis look like a five year old used finger paints.......lol

I have been using the Reaper brushes, and may break down and get a couple WNs now.......sounds like it will be worth the money.

Thanks to all of you who are here to help me spend my money. 8-)

Or actually save more money in the long run. :-)




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