Rebasing Bones?
#1
Posted 01 October 2012 - 11:21 AM
#2
Posted 01 October 2012 - 11:50 AM
I crosshatched the greenstuff with a hobby knife, put a little water on a smooth plastic surface, then pushed down and in tight circles buffing the green stuff down and level. The cross hatching lets you tell if a spot is not getting worn smooth and level, because it will be the only spot still marked.
"They'll sell you thousands of greens. Veronese green and emerald green and cadmium green and any sort of green you like; but that particular green, never." - Pablo Picasso
#4
Posted 01 October 2012 - 03:11 PM
Cave Troll
Ghost
Ogre Champion
Purple Worm
I also have several non-Bones minis rebased onto wooden discs, not the least of which is my current WIP thread on Rahl, Duke of Pain.
Hope that helps,
Aaron
#5
Posted 01 October 2012 - 03:55 PM
Note: DO NOT USE the super thin super glue, use the gap filler stuff. The super thin bleeds right through the grain and makes a giant mess. Yes, I learned the hard way...
#6
Posted 01 October 2012 - 04:50 PM
1" metal bases { called washers by normal folks ] can be bought at the hardware store. 100 can often be bought for between $3 to $15 US dollars. Call the local stores, the prices do vary store to store. 1.5" and 2" metal washers can also be bought there for moderately higher prices. if you want a 3/4" base, a US penny will work.
Poker chips are usually either 1.5" or 40mm. Cheaper ones are usually 1.5".
Bases can be had pretty cheaply if you know where to look. 1" discs show up often in several types of merchandise. If you buy bases online, there is a decent chance the shipping will cost you more than than the bases would have cost you at the Dollar Store / Craft store / Hardware store.
This guy has decent prices for plastic bases, but he recently got himself a day job so this supply might dry up. Bases for miniatures
Even with international shipping EM4 minis bases are a good value. They are very close to the "slotta" bases games workshop uses and these were the bases Wotc used for the 2001 Chainmail game. em4miniatures Miniatures Bases and http://www.em4miniat...g/Counters.html
Galeforce 9 USED to sell pints and quarts of MDF bases for a good price.
Some folks swear by litko, but they overcharge for Oval and Pill shaped bases :(
Circular Miniature Bases: 25 mm - LITKO Game Accessories
"Life gives you lemons you make lemonade, Life gives you whales... whale burgers." -Cadaver
#7
Posted 01 October 2012 - 05:21 PM
#9
Posted 02 October 2012 - 08:04 AM
#10
Posted 02 October 2012 - 09:27 AM
From what it looked like to me they charge LESS shipping for an order of that size.They're dirt cheap when you buy 100 1", 50 2", 10 3", 10 4", and still charge you the same amount for shipping.
"Life gives you lemons you make lemonade, Life gives you whales... whale burgers." -Cadaver
#11
Posted 02 October 2012 - 05:12 PM
Yup. I used a lot of these, but ultimately I didn't like the bases being brighter than my other (black based) miniatures.Would these work well?
http://www.craftpart...html?cat_id=281
I now prefer these, but other options include: Litko bases, Games Workshop, Wargames foundry, pennies and (as mentioned) Wooden Circles.
#12
Posted 02 October 2012 - 06:30 PM
I would really like to see reaper get more into sculpted bases, but I'm not sure the market is there given the dominance of GW and their retraining of hobbyists over the years.
(I also dislike broccoli bases! Sculpt me a scene fitting the mini! :))
#13
Posted 02 October 2012 - 07:29 PM
"They'll sell you thousands of greens. Veronese green and emerald green and cadmium green and any sort of green you like; but that particular green, never." - Pablo Picasso
#14
Posted 02 October 2012 - 09:57 PM
As I said, I grew up with sculpted bases, stuff like this guy (not mine, just a random googled image):

So that, or a nice clean flat base that would get painted a red, grey or green with a black wash. The flat bases with subtle paint was perfect for gaming minis.
My main issue with 'flocking' type basing (the big trend) is that it's so completely specific. Hope you meet those orcs on the windswept plain, or they're going to look really odd on a moving patch of tall grass ten levels underground. That kind of thing. Works great if you play on standard gaming tables in war or skirmish games, but I hate that it locks you into that.
Broccoli falls in between having to do it all yourself and the nice simple flat surface of old parthas.
For display pieces, yeah, I can see all the froo-froo.
#15
Posted 02 October 2012 - 10:12 PM
For example with my Ravenloft minis I painted the base edge black (blue for PCs) and the top gray and they were done.
Most models I paint the edge of the base black, the top green and then flock.
With the Bones I fully expect to take advantage of the Back-2-Base-ix because it is so easy to debase the Bones and glue them to the resin base.
Me in Reaper's Inspiration Gallery
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