8 replies to this topic

[cthulhudarren]

Are the colors named with "Wash" already diluted to be used for washes?

[smokingwreckage]

Since different jobs need different opacity, they might not do just what you want right out of the bottle.

[Reaperbryan]

They will be more diluted than "normal" paints, but still may require further dilution for certain applications.

In essence,they are diluted to the "thickest point one might ever want a wash" on the grounds that it's easy to make them thinner if you want them thinner, but harder for you to make it thicker if you want it thicker.

[psyberwolfe1]

...but harder for you to make it thicker if you want it thicker.

Wanna bet?

[cthulhudarren]

So these would not be for use as a base coat on bones because it has water and would bead up. Correct?

[buglips*the*goblin]

You'd have to put down a lot of layers to get a basecoat even if it did stick. It's more like a thin shader than a paint.

[thatguywiththeface]

Correct, sort of. The idea is that a wash is semi translucent, and flows into crevices more easily than regular paint does.

Basecoat paints, in contrast, tend to be more opaque (and/or thicker) than regular paint.

This should be true of any paint range you encounter, but be careful not to use anything labeled base or wash for the desired purpose right out of the bottle/pot/can. Test it first.

[cthulhudarren]

You would have to use a base for bones mini's, right? You can't add any water at all or it will bead on the bones material. I'd just have to make sure not to try and put too much paint on the minis at one time.

[GregR]

In my experience you can thin most paints a little bit and still paint Bones. I can't give you exact ratios, but I thinned to the point that the paint was flowing into the brush instead of the bristles scooping up paint on the outside to smear it on the surface. I did see a little bit of beading on some smooth shiny areas, but it was minimal. Like primer, you don't have to have complete pigmentation to have "gotten" an area. I just made sure to let the first coat dry completely in an area, even if some spots were mostly white still. The second coat increased coverage very significantly, no beading, and by the third coat I had acceptable uniform color to move onto a wash. For a 'show piece' I probably would have thinned the paint more after the first or second coat and done a fourth to get the smoothest possible foundation to layer on. If they're gaming pieces, or you're new painter, or even if you're just not concerned with 'surface texture', I would say painting straight out of the bottle (with a "paint" not a "wash" labeled product) or thinned with the tiniest bit of water is your best bet. Once an area has some paint on it, it paints just like any metal or resin mini, primed or otherwise... and thicker paints will more quickly and easily get you to that point.