Weapon sculpting redux
#1
Posted 18 September 2012 - 04:58 PM
En Taro Tassadar, Executor. - Artanis
#2
Posted 18 September 2012 - 08:47 PM
#3
Posted 18 September 2012 - 10:51 PM
1. Heat the armature - you can hold it up to an incandescent bulb for 30 - 40 seconds. It will warm the metal up enough for the putty to stick to it.
2. Tap the armature with fresh putty - picked this one up from Derek Schubert (Thanks Derek!) just tap your armature with some freshly mixed putty. Keep tapping and after a bit the putty will leave a film on the armature. Apply putty normally from there.
3. Pinch and schmear - This is my favorite technique. I take a little pinch of putty between my thumb and index finger and using a fair amount of pressure just schmear it down the wire or armature.
Couple other thoughts for you. Make sure your armature is clean. If you're using Vaseline when you sculpt, try NOT using it to mix the one little bit you're trying to get to stick to your armature. After that you can go back to using lube again ;-)
Hope that helps ~
Gene
#4
Posted 19 September 2012 - 11:25 AM
#5
Posted 19 September 2012 - 07:47 PM
1) Sketch out the final shape at actual size.
2) Use a thin brass rod (stiff but slightly bendable) as the armature. Bend it if it must be bent to fit the shape that I want.
3) Mix my brown stuff, lay out an oversized glob of it on a piece of translucent plastic (so I can see my drawn shape through the plastic), push the brass wire into the glob, and put a second glob on top of the wire (sandwiching the wire between a top & bottom half).
4) After the brown stuff has cured, pop it off the plastic and carve it into the shape I want.
5) Add details with green stuff or brown stuff.
Like so:
Another option is to take the weapon from another metal miniature (essentially bypassing steps 1-3 above) and carve it into shape.
My advice would come from left-field; try using a piece of plasticard to cut and carve the shape of the blade. ...
Nice! Yeah, if you aren't going to cast the finished weapon, then plasticard sounds convenient.
And you're welcome for the tapping technique, Gene!
Derek
#6
Posted 19 September 2012 - 10:30 PM
Gene
#7
Posted 20 September 2012 - 10:24 PM
Derek that's the most eloquent description of weapon sculpting I've ever read. You should get that pinned at the top of this forum, or better yet, make it a Reaper Craft article! :-D
Gene
Thanks! It's just what Werner Klocke does (and most other sculptors, probably), but if I've helped by explaining it well, then I'm glad.
I'll take some in-progress shots and make an article about the next weapon that I sculpt in brown stuff.
Now we just have to see whether it helps our friend @Loim make a nice Elven Curve Blade...
Derek
#8
Posted 22 September 2012 - 11:28 AM
En Taro Tassadar, Executor. - Artanis
#9
Posted 24 September 2012 - 06:03 PM
En Taro Tassadar, Executor. - Artanis
#10
Posted 25 September 2012 - 03:17 PM
Now I would clip off the wire to the proper length (curve blades are two-handed weapons, right?) -- you'll cover the end with putty for the pommel. Add a little brown stuff or a piece of wire to give the inner structure for a crossbar/guard, let that harden. Then apply a finished layer (green or brown) for the crossbar/guard, grip, and pommel; stick the putty on when it's first mixed, and give it some general shape, but let it set for 15 minutes for you try to make the finished details, since otherwise it will just flop all over and you'll waste your initial efforts.
Derek
#11
Posted 27 September 2012 - 08:05 AM
#12
Posted 28 September 2012 - 08:23 AM
#13
Posted 15 October 2012 - 08:34 PM
En Taro Tassadar, Executor. - Artanis
#14
Posted 04 December 2012 - 06:46 PM
En Taro Tassadar, Executor. - Artanis
#15
Posted 04 December 2012 - 07:31 PM
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