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Group WIPs interest?


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#256 CashWiley

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Posted 30 September 2012 - 01:05 PM

Nocturne, your pelt looks exactly like the source photo I was going to use for inspiration! Yay!

And Gobbo hit my other main source inspiration, Captain Lou!

#257 Pingo

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Posted 30 September 2012 - 03:02 PM

Nocturn's fur back pelt looks awesome, and like Citrine, I think I'm going to swipe N's painting idea.

All credit to Nocturne for doing it first, of course.

I was considering skunk markings for the front pelt.

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#258 cthulhudarren

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Posted 02 October 2012 - 02:35 PM

I broke rule #2 on the WIP thread because I am a big dummy who doesn't follow directions. I went back in and removed the comment. I repent.

#259 cthulhudarren

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Posted 02 October 2012 - 02:41 PM

But, realistically, nobody should expect metal level detail quality for 1/4 of the price anyways. This is not a criticism of Bones on my part, metal snobbiness aside, just that I think people should have realistic expectations of what's coming in the big box in March - and not throw a fit when the cloud giantess doesn't look quite as gnarly as the metal master does.


I admit that I was expecting the plastic to look like the metal masters. Mea culpa. I'm working on lowering my expectations.

#260 buglips*the*goblin

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Posted 02 October 2012 - 05:31 PM

I broke rule #2 on the WIP thread because I am a big dummy who doesn't follow directions. I went back in and removed the comment. I repent.


Nah, it's ok. You weren't the first. And anyway, the thread isn't nearly as busy as I anticipated so it shouldn't make much of a difference. It spaced out pretty well, but before it went up it looked like we'd have twenty or so people crowding in there - and that might have made it messy.


I admit that I was expecting the plastic to look like the metal masters. Mea culpa. I'm working on lowering my expectations.


It comes down to how picky you are. To me, it's glaring - but not everybody will see it that way. My comment is less "it'll be an inferior product" and more "it might not look exactly like this". I mean, for plastic it's awful close. Awful close.

*Budd ogre literally just fell off the shelf*

Be nice if the bases weren't warped, though.

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Buglips, that is just epic, and so very wrong.


#261 ObsidianCrane

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Posted 02 October 2012 - 06:03 PM

I've had 1 warped base of significance in 10 of the larger humanoids. By "of significance" I mean visually I could tell it was warped because it didn't all sit on the desktop by half a mm or so along an edge.

The problem with the ogre is it has a tiny base, while that is fine in metal where its own weight holds it steady it doesn't work in plastic so the bones ogre falls over a lot if you don't put him on a larger base.
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#262 gmpathfinder

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Posted 02 November 2012 - 11:20 PM

Is it too late to join in on the fun? I just started reading through the forums- I'm 'returning' to the hobby after a failed attempt almost a decade ago (and one 2 decades ago!) to learn to paint. I have a bones ogre that I just started.

To my shame, my last attempt at painting was some old Ral Partha Dragonlance minis that were pretty beat up, and because I had made model ships and planes as a kid I tried painting them with enamels. If anyone has a good way of stripping enamel paint (I've been trying a few suggestions but they all seem more effective for acrylics).

I'm now starting with a few reaper metals (pathfinder!) and have bought a handful of bones to practice with before the glut in the spring arrives. I had just started painting some before I found the kickstarter. My paints are mostly P3s with a few GW and two reaper bottles, but I'm slowly expanding.

Thanks!

#263 Last Knight

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Posted 03 November 2012 - 12:16 AM

Is it too late to join in on the fun?


By all means, hop in; and welcome back!

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#264 MonkeySloth

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Posted 03 November 2012 - 12:23 AM

To my shame, my last attempt at painting was some old Ral Partha Dragonlance minis that were pretty beat up, and because I had made model ships and planes as a kid I tried painting them with enamels. If anyone has a good way of stripping enamel paint (I've been trying a few suggestions but they all seem more effective for acrylics).


Paint thinner\turpentine will take the enamels off. I've had stuff before, can't remember the name, that was made for removing enamels but was non-toxic, could be used on skin and clothes (worked great) but never tried it on minis as I wasn't painting when I had this stuff a few years ago.

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#265 buglips*the*goblin

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Posted 03 November 2012 - 01:49 PM

Yep, paint thinner ought to work. If it's all enamels, you're pretty well off for stripping. It gets to be a real headache if you have mixed mediums on a figure. A lot of mine were like that, and sometimes what you'll use to strip one kind of paint will chemically alter what remains of the other kind and make it super tough to get clean. But if it's all the same kind, super bonus! Just fill a container of appropiate size, drop in the figure and let it soak, then pull it out once the stripper's done it's magic and scrub it over with an old toothbrush (very gently if they're lead, vigorous scrubbing may scrub away lead details) . Rinse it off, and if you're lucky it's all gone. You might have to poke or scrape a few small areas.

If after that you find some of your non-lead parthas look "rusty" then you can polish these with silvo or brasso metal polish. Remember to rinse that off before you go to paint 'em. However, you can just paint over the rusty-looking tarnish. I've done this on a few I didn't feel like polishing, and (so far) haven't noticed any ill effects.

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Buglips, that is just epic, and so very wrong.


#266 ced1106

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Posted 18 November 2012 - 02:00 PM

Has anyone received their Sophies yet? I'm seeing such comments in the KS comment sections. I'd like to see a thread for Sophie KS WIPs (in addition to any other WIP planned)!




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