20 replies to this topic

[Captain Murray]

Ahoy me hearties,

Starting a topic in a shakesperian way...

Do you usually apply varnish in your minis to make they more resilient to the time and contact?

I always did that in the past, but today I noticed that after the varnish, some details and highlights faded a little bit and the mini (Despite been a mat varnish) get a little glossy (I guess this is one of the reasons my photos always sucks).

This is my first mini using new techniques such as the highlighting and glazing and I guess the varnish blew up a little bit :-(

[Marsya]

I always use varnish as it protects the paint. Dullcote works best in low humidity and if the mini is warm it will go on better. So either sit it in the sun or use a hair dryer to warm the metal prior to varnishing, the result is much better.

[MonkeySloth]

There was a thread here not to long ago and the consensious from most people was to varnish and that it really doesn't destroy the blends if you're using the right brand. Lots of information from some very talented painters about half way down the first page.

http://www.reapermin...-own-delusions/

[Captain Murray]

I read somewhere that you can use the Reaper Brush on Sealer as a varnish to protect the mini (applying it diluted with a airbrush) anyone can confirm this? It will keep the shadings, because I get very frustrated with the last mini I applied the varnish :-(

[psyberwolfe1]

Yes I push it through my Airbrush, and in fact it will protect and seal weathering powders very nicely.

[Captain Murray]

And how much do you dilute it for using in the airbrush? 50/50?

[psyberwolfe1]

I don't dilute it. It's thin enough to push through without dilution.

[buglips*the*goblin]

For anything going into table service, which is a rough place to go with the monkeys I play with, I give the miniature a thin coat of 50/50 future and water a couple of days before dullcoating.

Or, and this is a recent experiment that's proven interesting, I'll dullcoat lightly after priming, again after the basecoat and darklining is done, and then a final spritz when it's all finished.

I've discovered that you can paint right over dry testor's dullcoat without issue, and this method came about by accident (I had to paint PC's for use and it took so long they had to go into service twice before they were finished). But it seems to work, and the dwarf took a tumble from chest-high to the laminate and the laminate lost. He doesn't have a blemish.

So that might be worth an experiment or two if you have something going into hard table duty.

[Captain Murray]

For anything going into table service, which is a rough place to go with the monkeys I play with, I give the miniature a thin coat of 50/50 future and water a couple of days before dullcoating.

Or, and this is a recent experiment that's proven interesting, I'll dullcoat lightly after priming, again after the basecoat and darklining is done, and then a final spritz when it's all finished.

I've discovered that you can paint right over dry testor's dullcoat without issue, and this method came about by accident (I had to paint PC's for use and it took so long they had to go into service twice before they were finished). But it seems to work, and the dwarf took a tumble from chest-high to the laminate and the laminate lost. He doesn't have a blemish.

So that might be worth an experiment or two if you have something going into hard table duty.

Interesting...

The only huge problem I have living in Brazil is we don´t have much access to those products (its very hard to find and when you do they are pretty expensive). All I have in hands now is the Tamiya White primer and the Reaper Brush on primer and I think I will gonna have to work with this.

I just hope the Reaper Brush on sealer do not erase my highlights as the other regular varnish did with my previous miniature.

[Jeff LaMarche]

Interesting...

The only huge problem I have living in Brazil is we don´t have much access to those products (its very hard to find and when you do they are pretty expensive).

Future is just an acrylic floor polish. It's probably sold in your country, but possibly under a different name. If not, there's likely a comparable product available. I came across an airbrush website once that gave a list of comparable products in various countries. Ah, Google found it: http://www.swannysmo...leteFuture.html

I only paint models for playing, not for show, so I'm probably not as picky as some of y'all about this kind of thing, but I find Future works great. For minis, generally a 1:1 Future to Water ratio pushed through the airbrush at about 15psi gives good results, not too glossy unless you overdo it, and dull-kote will take it back if you do. Of course, if you have something you want glossy, kick some undiluted Future through the airbrush at a higher PSI and you can get a real wet look. I believe you can Future with a brush or Q-tip also, but if you have an Airbrush, that's by far the best way to apply the stuff.

The best thing about Future is the price. A large bottle is a few bucks and it lasts forever.

[Wren]

Future is meant to be shiny. So I'd do tests with that to make sure you like the finish before you use it on something you care about. Dullcote will dull the shine quite well, but if you don't have access to Dullcote you'll need to test with the Reaper sealer to see if you can dull it down enough.

Speaking of Reaper's brush on sealer, Anne recommends thinning that slightly with water if you want a true matte finish. Used full strength it can result in more of a semi-gloss. Also, from experience, shake the bottle A LOT every time you use it. There's more stuff in there that falls out of suspension than in a paint. If you don't shake it every time, the start of the bottle won't seem matte enough, and you can get frosting effects at the end of the bottle.

[Jeff LaMarche]

Future is meant to be shiny. So I'd do tests with that to make sure you like the finish before you use it on something you care about.

It definitely is, and if you dip in it or apply it heavily, you end up with a shiny figure (and it works great for water effects and other things that you want to be shiny). Applying a 1:1 Future/water solution sprayed at low pressure (<20psi) and using several light coats (letting them dry between applications), however, and you get a matte finish nearly indistinguishable from Dull-Kote. It's only if you over-do it that you'll need the Dull-Kote to pull it back.

But practice is definitely a good suggestion, as your first few minis could very well be shinier than you expect, especially if you're impatient, like me.

[Kay]

What is Dullcote if you don't mind me butting in and asking??

[chaosscorpion]

A clear spary on acrylic sealer, with a matte finish.

[smokingwreckage]

Dullcote is not an acrylic. It's a spray enamel of some sort with a solvent base, so take care with it.
The "multiple dullcote during progress" method is a tested and approved method that got a lot of chatter around here about four years ago. I use it a lot. It also lets you wash off still-wet colours that you suddenly decide were a horrible mistake.

Wren's advice on Reaper brush-on-sealer is exactly what I remember hearing around here a while back, if that helps.