I have been using dremel tools and miniature hand drills to cut off the broccoli bases of my figures, and put posts in the bottom. Will this method still work on the bones line of figures? Are they resin or plastic, technically?
Thanks!
Basing the new Bones Line
Started by
btannehill
, Jul 31 2012 06:31 AM
8 replies to this topic
#2
Jordan Peacock
-
- Bones Supporter
-
- 486 posts
Enlightened
Posted 31 July 2012 - 06:44 AM
It's a whole lot EASIER to cut the broccoli bases off the Bones figures, based on my experimentation so far. All you need is a hobby knife and fairly little pressure. The plastic cuts very easily.
These figures are definitely plastic -- and definitely on the bendy side (though this is more noticeable with thin, spindly figures such as the skeletons than with thicker figures such as the werewolf, gnoll, or bugbear).
Pinning drills work best if you are drilling into a THICK facing area. I had some trouble trying to do pinning holes in narrower limbs (say, for a hand swap), due to the flexibility of the plastic.
I've been told that a better method in that case is to heat a needle over a candle, and then poke the needle into the plastic; the heat will melt the plastic enough to make a hole that you can use to insert wire for pinning. I have not tried this method myself, however (as I need to get more Bones to experiment with ;) ).
These figures are definitely plastic -- and definitely on the bendy side (though this is more noticeable with thin, spindly figures such as the skeletons than with thicker figures such as the werewolf, gnoll, or bugbear).
Pinning drills work best if you are drilling into a THICK facing area. I had some trouble trying to do pinning holes in narrower limbs (say, for a hand swap), due to the flexibility of the plastic.
I've been told that a better method in that case is to heat a needle over a candle, and then poke the needle into the plastic; the heat will melt the plastic enough to make a hole that you can use to insert wire for pinning. I have not tried this method myself, however (as I need to get more Bones to experiment with ;) ).
#3
btannehill
-
- Members
-
- 109 posts
Instigator
Posted 31 July 2012 - 07:11 AM
Ooh.... nice trick! Now I just need a lighter to do it with (no one I know smokes). Good to hear that they're plastic, actually, since resin tends to shatter very easily. This is going to be great for making my hordes of bad guys and for big, expensive figures (giants, ogres, etc).
I will still be using the pewter figs for my PCs, though. My figures are all intended for tabletop use.
I will still be using the pewter figs for my PCs, though. My figures are all intended for tabletop use.
#5
Jordan Peacock
-
- Bones Supporter
-
- 486 posts
Enlightened
Posted 31 July 2012 - 09:07 AM
Ooh.... nice trick! Now I just need a lighter to do it with (no one I know smokes). Good to hear that they're plastic, actually, since resin tends to shatter very easily. This is going to be great for making my hordes of bad guys and for big, expensive figures (giants, ogres, etc). I will still be using the pewter figs for my PCs, though.
That's exactly the appeal I see for Bones as well -- I'm willing to shell out more for pewter for those UNUSUAL characters, such as the heroes, or "star" NPCs, but for hordes of zombies, giant rats, evil pirates, ninjas, or whatever, I've often resorted to cheaper plastics (such as Mage Knight / HeroClix / HorrorClix) even if the quality is inferior, simply because it would be prohibitively expensive otherwise. (And for my BIG monsters, when I've run fantasy games in the past, I've often used action figures, such as McFarlane Dragons, re-based so they can stand on the table.) But with the new Bones line, it looks like I've got a nice, new viable option for cheap "hordes" and more affordable "very big bads." :D
#6
btannehill
-
- Members
-
- 109 posts
Instigator
Posted 31 July 2012 - 09:55 AM
Jordan: that is exactly what I said to my spouse last night when I was describing why the new Bones line is such a good deal: save a ton of money on hordes, and saves a lot of money on big, expensive figures.
I think the Bones line should focus on molds of "horde" type figures like men at arms, archers, orcs, hobgoblins, etc...
I think the Bones line should focus on molds of "horde" type figures like men at arms, archers, orcs, hobgoblins, etc...
#7
DixonGrfx
-
- Bones Supporter
-
- 279 posts
Enlightened
Posted 31 July 2012 - 11:06 AM
I think the Bones line should focus on molds of "horde" type figures like men at arms, archers, orcs, hobgoblins, etc...
Well, your not alone on that one. I suggested they do just that in the BONES wish list thread when they first announced the line. I need cheap antagonists in large numbers!
#8
btannehill
-
- Members
-
- 109 posts
Instigator
Posted 01 August 2012 - 07:39 AM
Follow up question regarding prep work on Bones figures. Do they need a coat of primer like the pewter figures, or can you just base and go?
#9
DixonGrfx
-
- Bones Supporter
-
- 279 posts
Enlightened
Posted 01 August 2012 - 07:44 AM
Follow up question regarding prep work on Bones figures. Do they need a coat of primer like the pewter figures, or can you just base and go?
You'll find that this particular topic gets discussed allot as part of other threads, but is not the main topic.. It Boils down to this.
1. Reaper will only officially endorse the MSP line for painting without primer.
2. Speed painters complain that the coverage of the first coat beads up, but if you let it dry and re-coat your fine.
3. DO NOT thin your first coat of paint with water.
4. Some debate goes on over washing the mini first. My experience was no washing and they painted with perfect coverage and no primer.
5. I would recommend (but not require) that the first coat be from the MSP HD line.
6. If your not in a hurry to paint your minis fast, no primer required.
7. Washes and Inks wont work for your first layer. Just don't do it.
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users
