Comparison of P-65 Metal vs. Regular Reaper?
Posted 23 June 2012 - 05:37 PM
* http://www.reapermin...est/65089]65089 - Reggie Van Zandt, Intergalactic Marine (P-65)[/url] for $5.99
* http://www.reapermin...own/50022]50022 - Reggie Van Zandt, IMEF Heavy Gunner (Chronoscope)[/url] for $7.99
I couldn't help but notice that the P-65 version is $2 cheaper. My thought was that the reason for this
When I was putting in an order for Sarah Blitzer at my local game store, I asked about the P-65 version of Reggie Van Zandt, and was urged to reconsider getting anything from the P-65 "unless it's something really big and heavy and expensive that the savings would be worth it." The problem, I was told, was that the P-65 minis are exceptionally soft compared to the regular Reaper metal. I was told an anecdotal tale of someone who had just bought a regular-sized model in the P-65 line, and dropped it on the table, and then picked it up, and the facial features were totally smashed. Therefore, it would be fine for "display on a shelf," but not for regular game use.
I don't recall having that sort of trouble with minis back when they still had lead in them (yeah, I'm THAT old, I'll admit it). I was wondering: Is this a serious problem with the P-65 line? Is that what I'm trading off? I can't really argue with anecdotal evidence since I haven't picked up anything yet from the P-65 line to tell from personal experience of my own, but I'm having a bit of trouble imagining the miniature would be *that* fragile, or I'd wonder if it would be already damaged in the blister by the time I get it.
Does anyone have experience comparing the P-65 metals to the regular Reaper minis, who could comment on the differences? Are P-65 minis "just for display"?
Posted 23 June 2012 - 05:43 PM
I won't buy any P-65 model.
I like Reaper's metal formula just fine.
I'm sure you'll get other opinions on this over the next few days.
Posted 23 June 2012 - 06:04 PM
I do a lot of historicals, as well as having done minis back in the "Golden era" (or maybe just the "Silver era" aka the '80s) where lead was still an alloy in the mix. IMHO the P-65s are "harder" than the alloy Grenadier used, and much better than the alloy Minifigs used (I found a pack of their AD&D kobolds at a store a lo-ong time ago). I would say it's a decent quality alloy, and I've dropped man-sized figures on a hard table a time or two and didn't get the "boxer's nose syndrome," and definitely didn't get smashed or distorted features. If you dropped it from chest height onto concrete, I think you'd get some damage to the metal, so don't do that (I have doubts pewter would survived unscathed for that matter).
IMHO lead alloy is a bit more enjoyable to clean up mold lines etc, but is softer and heavier than pewter, so YMMV.
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Posted 23 June 2012 - 09:38 PM
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Posted 24 June 2012 - 12:15 AM
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Posted 24 June 2012 - 10:04 AM
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Posted 25 June 2012 - 07:20 AM
My most tragic fall was the hill giant from the top shelf of a floor to ceiling bookshelf. The arm with the club came off at the glued shoulder joint. No smooshing of detail. If something with that much mass survived...not too worried about a man sized figure.
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Posted 25 June 2012 - 07:42 AM
Posted 28 June 2012 - 12:39 PM
For us oldtimers, that were painting lead while Carter was PotUS it is like coming home. :)
My preference... ... ... maybe pewter, but not by enough to matter. I am happy to buy either.
The Auld Grump
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