7 replies to this topic

[DixonGrfx]

So, I have been trying my hand at sculpting. It's been a very hit or miss kind of experience so far. I'm having a good time, and I am not getting too bent out of shape while I overcome the learning curve. Couple of things that I have learned so far.

1) Going from polymer clay to epoxy putty was a bit of a culture shock. The looming time limit of the "pot life" has been a difficult mental barrier to overcome. I felt like I was fighting time and the putty to achieve the results I wanted. After reading through some of the threads here, it was made clear that the putty needs time to set before you really start working with it. I fond that mixing up a small amount of putty and just smooshing it, stretching it, generally just playing around with it helped a great deal. Understanding how it "ages" eased that feeling of fighting the clock and my inadequate skills.

2) Finger prints are beginning to become an issue. I am working with an armature and it's set in a cork, so you wouldn't think prints would be much of a problem, but they are... How do you guys deal with finger prints? It occurred to me this morning that I could try wearing latex surgical gloves. But that seems like overkill, and fairly uncomfortable. Plus I don't know if the putty would stick to the gloves becoming a new issue. Right now I am just using my tools and mineral oil to smooth away the prints, but it seems like extra work, If you could avoid prints in the putty in the first place.

3) Reading though a few threads, some have mentioned using plastic wrap to help smooth surfaces. But, I haven't caught when it would be appropriate, or the techniques involved. No detailed descriptions, just vague references. So what's up with plastic wrap?

4) When the pros are sculpting a large monster for casting, do they use 100% epoxy putty? That sounds like it would get expensive. Right now I am working on a monstrous centipede that is Sculpy core to bulk up the form and ProCreate for the detail work. I think that will work great for my personal collection, but If the sculpt was going to go into production, I doubt that would work.

Anyway, thanks in advance for taking the time to read though my questions and any replies.

Dusty

[TaleSpinner]

Fingerprints just take time to figure out. Actually, with practice you will find that your fingers are one of the best smoothing tools you have, just don't stop moving on the putty. You can also use your tool to smooth out the putty. To get things really smooth though, you'll want to pick up a set of clay shapers. Can't beat them for smoothing things out/together. Also, ensure that you are using a lubricant for your tools. I use Vaseline to great effect. I know a lot of other sculptors do as well.

Andy

[Hellbeard]

I personally just never touch it with my fingers and take great care not to do so accidentally. Fingers seem so crude to use for shaping and the prints themselves are huge channels and ridges. I use water for lubrication, it doesn't leave any residue. The real secret to smooth surfaces isn't clay shapers, though I've been told they help and everyone likes them. The secret is "butterfly farts". This has been relayed to me on these forums by the professional sculptor Gene. You must use a most minimal amount of force to push and coax the putty to it's place. This somehow makes things smooth, I think it has to do with how the polymers align on the surface or something scientific like that. If you want to measure how much force to use just think about the fart of a butterfly.(please forgive my insolence Gene if I had inadvertently distorted your message)

Another awesome and important tip is to work from the general to the specific (again, thank you master Gene). Do the general form during the early stages (for me up to t+00:40.00 give or take) and the details during the late stages of curing (t+01:20.00). What will happen is the shapes settle in and won't be so disturbed by the detail work and the details will be crisper. Don't freak out if you go over time. In the end it takes quite a bit of experience to learn when and how to do things so you need a lot of patience and practice practice practice.


Not sure about the other things but an important note is the type of mold making whether hot or cold makes a difference. In cold molds you can use whatever old material you want and you'll be surprised indeed if you learn how many pros use FIMO of all things. In hot molds you need pure metal, Kneadatite and or maybe procreate because of the high heat and pressure.

Good luck, and post pictures so we can see what you're doing!

[DixonGrfx]

Thanks guys. I'll try to get some pics tonight and post them up. It's the end of the school year for the kids, so there seems to be an overabundance of extra-curricular activities going on in the evenings. I am only getting about an hour an evening to sculpt just before it time to crash. If not tonight, I'll get picks up before the weekend is out.

On the centipede sculpt, there are all these .... ummm.... pointy "spikes" all over. Most of them are like a single claw on the end of a leg. The only way I could think to get good results with the spikes was to create all the spikes first. Let them cure for a day and then stick them into place when I get to a leg or wherever the spike goes. It's working pretty well. But, I may need to go back and sculpt them again. They seem to me to be a bit soft and bendy, more than I like. I was using a 50/50 mix of resin and hardener. Maybe I should go back and use a 40/60 mix of resin/hardener before I get too far ahead and regret not doing it. Tiny pointed clay snakes. Not real exciting work, but without a ton of good spikes, the monster won't look intimidating. Besides, I figure it will be good training for monster teeth. Any tips on sculpting spikes, claws, fangs, teeth? Especially when you need a matched pair.... Keeping symmetry in the sculpt has been challenging.

It's really beginning to become very clear that sculpting is very much a process with a lot of planning up front. Staring with a really good concept design. Then breaking it down into stages.

[evhorne969]

It's really beginning to become very clear that sculpting is very much a process with a lot of planning up front. Staring with a really good concept design. Then breaking it down into stages.

That is ABSOLUTELY correct!! One of the big tricks to working with putty is to figure out how you're going to sculpt it and it what stages before you ever start sculpting.

To touch on a couple of your other questions, Fingers are GREAT sculpting tools. Like Talespinner said, keep your fingers moving. You just need to have a very light touch (butterfly farts, no worries Hellbeard ) and use a little vaseline. VERY little vaseline, rub it into your fingers so they're like you just ate a piece of fried chicken. Greasy but not gloppy!!

I would stay away from the plastic wrap when working with green. That's really more of a clay technique which can be used to great effect for creating skin wrinkles and fur textures.

I've done large monsters in all green. It's a little more expensive than clay, then again, I buy putty by the case Besides, that's one of the reasons why we miniature sculptors get paid so much. (yeah riiiight...) Anyway, you can use clay or putty or both, just make sure of two things:

#1 You use a wire armature no matter what material you use.

#2 Make sure your moldmaker knows what material(s) you are using as they will have to use different techniques for molding epoxy vs polymer clay.

Gene

[DixonGrfx]

The pics i promised. The concept drawing I am useing for insperation is not my own. I found it on google images.











The monster will be sectional. So it can bend around corners, or vary in length.

[Shogan]

O_O Holy. Crap. That is both awesome and terrifying. You're telling me that thing can maneuver in a dungeon? My character just retired.

[Goblyn]

i love it