10 replies to this topic

[MechanovaKing]

I have this stuff laying around.

http://www.rustoleum...uct.asp?pid=219

And I really don't want to drive all the way to civilization to buy a can of expensive primer. (On the other hand I don't want my figure to look awful)

Can i use this?

[ixminis]

I've got some Rustoleum that I use when I've got A LONG LONG TIME I can afford to wait *and* when it's something that needs a super tough primer. The rustoleum I've used covers very well and can fill details if one is not careful.

Dry time is 72 hours minimum and I've had it take longer. If it has not dried, you will get crackling Acryllic paint.

This particular brand of rustoleum you've linked to I don't have experience with.

I hope this half-baked info helps a little bit.

[haldir]

Rustoleum in general for me is just a bad brand, it's dubbed Crudoleum.

I think that primer is for house repair has a sealer to cover up the paint underneath.

To be honest I'd rather wait & get a can of primer you know for sure will work.

["That Guy"]

The term "20% more coverage and hide" worries me to no end. What I am taking away from it's description is that it is really thick and good at filling in details. I haven't used it personally, so my basis of opinion is only on what I've read. I'd try it out on a test piece lightly first and wait for several days for it to dry completely before making any final judgments.

[Adrift]

Not sure what you mean by getting to civilization, but if you can get your hands on a can of flat white krylon I've started using that as primer over the more expensive boutique primers. It sprays on smoother and more even than the boutique brands.

[harbinger]

I second Krylon. Prefer grey myself but thats personal taste. Half the price if the "gameers" brand primers, twice the quanity and works better.

[ixminis]

What's a boutique brand? I've got an idea, but I want to be sure I'm getting it...

[haldir]

"boutique" = Tamiya or Dupicolor, ie the quality primers that are out there.

I for one just like using Primer over a reg paint since Primer has the tooth. It's the reason why it's called primer.

(& when I say primer I use a variety of them, Tamiya, Dupi, Krylon, Walmart brand, etc etc)

[Adrift]

To be clear..I use the krylon white matte primer spray specifically. I do not use spray paint to prime.

[Bruunwald]

Yeah, that bit about it sealing pored surfaces, and whatnot. Regular Rustoleum already floods out and muddies up details as it is. I wouldn't touch anything by that manufacturer that also guarantees it will seal holes up.

[Astra4000]

As someone who works for a major paint vendor, I can say that the "Bull's Eye" line of primer is better than generic ones from box stores. However, when you want to prime a non-porous surface, the product needs to be focused on maximum adhesion and smoothness. In a spray can, you need something for plastic/metal adhesion, with a spray tip that has fine dispersion (look for a visible pin at the top, avoid ones where the entire nozzle must be depressed). KRYLON gray accomplishes this, and doesn't "soak" the surface like some with slow-flash solvents. Yet, I must say that I wouldn't use any aerosols on 28mm figures, just scenery. The airbrush is the only propelled system I'd trust not to blur detail.

Brushing a light coat of Bull's Eye 123 from a quart can is a better solution. A drop of pigment and a drop of water makes any quality acrylic adhesion primer a brushable mini primer. Personally, I use a (commercial grade) multi-surface primer called ProCryl, which is strong enough to go on steel buildings.