75 replies to this topic

[ObsidianCrane]

I think I'm going back to no primer for my Bones minis.

[CashWiley]

The problem I have with not priming is that it won't take a wash and I like to start from a wash.

[Argentee]

The problem I have with not priming is that it won't take a wash and I like to start from a wash.

Maybe try painting it with True White then doing the wash?

[Pingo]

The problem I have with not priming is that it won't take a wash and I like to start from a wash.

Maybe try painting it with True White then doing the wash?

The Bones are so white, you can't see where white paint is overing them or leaving spots uncovered.

I primed mine with paint (which I have always done) -- white mixed with a touch of color so I could see it. Then it took washed beautifully.

[Niranth]

The problem I have with not priming is that it won't take a wash and I like to start from a wash.

I tried using PVC plumbing prep on Bones during the Kickstarter to see how it reacted. I used "Purple Primer" and below is a picture of how they turned out. Purple is by far the easiest to find, but there are other colors. After using the really noxious solution on the bones, I was able to thin the paint to 1:6 (paint to water) before it started beading up. Before using Purple Primer, read the label!

[salyvan]

I recently primed a couple of Bones minis using black matte Krylon spray on primer. On one mini the primer went on great and dried perfectly within 24 hours. On the other mini, primer went on great, but it is still tacky to the touch (doesn't leave fingerprint marks though). I applied too much primer on the second mini though.

[Teskal]

I think Vallejo Acrylic-Polyurethane Varnish (60ml) would be a could protection agains breaking color.

26.526 Vallejo Gloss Acrylic-Polyurethane Varnish (60ml)
26.527 Vallejo Matte Acrylic-Polyurethane Varnish (60ml)
26.528 Vallejo Satin Acrylic-Polyurethane Varnish (60ml)

I used the glossy version, I think it could be a good protection, but I don't have any bones yet.

From Vallejo FAQ:

10.4. Why should I use the new polyurethane varnish?
The advantage of this varnish is perhaps best noticed when varnishing larger surfaces. The varnish is manufactured with a new resin, a hybrid of Urethane and Acrylic, which results in a more resistant coating, self-leveling and easier to apply than a varnish manufactured with 100% acrylic resin. Basically it has the same properties as our new Polyurethane Primers, can be applied with a brush or an airbrush, and utensils can be cleaned easily after use.

And I learned something today (I shaked it always...):

10.3. I have air bubbles in my varnish, what causes this?
It is important not to shake the varnishes, since it may take several hours for bubbles to disappear. Mixing should be achieved by gently stirring the product.

They have also Polyurethane Primers, but I can't say much about it.

[bloodydrake]

I have an order with 3 bones figures on delivery should be here in the next week or so.
I tend to use Army Painters Colored primers. I'll prime one with matt white, one with greenskin colored primer and one with wolf grey colored primer and post the results here and see if the colored primers work as well as the plain white.
I use the quickshade dip then dullcoat as well, so after I'll dip them all and see as time goes by before the kickstart delivery how it holds up.

[ced1106]

I'm spoiled rotten by the "black primer + white dry brush" technique. (:

The primer I'm currently using is Rust-oleam Painter's Touch Ultra Cover 2x "Also bonds to PLASTIC" primer. Anyone know if this stuff works on Bones?



EDIT: Works fine.

[Frankthedm]

I'm spoiled rotten by the "black primer + white dry brush" technique. (:

The primer I'm currently using is Rust-oleam Painter's Touch Ultra Cover 2x "Also bonds to PLASTIC" primer. Anyone know if this stuff works on Bones?



Thanks!!!

The one time I used a different brand of plastic primer {Fusion], it went on thick and fused with the plastic so it could't be stripped off. I wish I could give more info.

[Frankthedm]

Since I've grown to like primed black minis, but suspect many bones will be too flexible to prime in the solid black basecoat I like to work with, I'm going to try using a sharpie to 'prime' a bones bugbear. I'll be back later with results.

[Last Knight]

Since I've grown to like primed black minis, but suspect many bones will be too flexible to prime in the solid black basecoat I like to work with, I'm going to try using a sharpie to 'prime' a bones bugbear. I'll be back later with results.

I just hit that bugbear with black gesso, I'll let you know how it goes. :-)

[Frankthedm]

Weapon and shield were direct marker application. Body was painted using sharpie ink / rubbing alcohol / water mix i'm still trying to perfect.


Hmm the mix penatrates the bones, but not fully, the midnight purple areas can be rubbed off to a whitish purple



But that will be fine for me since I like to prime black, drybrush white.

Edited by Frankthedm, 07 October 2012 - 03:30 AM.

[Frankthedm]

Interesting. because the permanent maker penetrates the plastic, areas with abrasions have a darker hue as the plastic is more readily penetrated.

[Miar]

Interesting. because the permanent maker penetrates the plastic, areas with abrasions have a darker hue as the plastic is more readily penetrated.

I'd like to see what this looks like after you put a bit of paint on it.