The Stripping Materials Compendium
Posted 22 August 2010 - 05:53 AM
Image attached of the bottle, though it's small.
Posted 22 August 2010 - 07:20 AM
Just a heads up for anyone interested. I know some of you use super clean for stripping minis. Every Wal-Mart around here has Super Clean on clearance right now, so it's likely on clearance at all the stores. Might be worth checking if you use it.
Posted 01 September 2010 - 08:58 PM
First of all, Acetone shouldn't ever be used for plastic. This was mentioned up thread, but just to emphasise: it will completely melt the surface of anything plastic. My metal minis were superglued to primed plastic bases and they look like.. lava. It's kind of neat looking but they're also really flexible and the edges are goop.
As for how long to soak I expected a few hours like people are suggesting for other chemicals. However, when I placed the first mini in I saw the Acetone growing cloudy immediately. After about 5 minutes I pulled her out and scrubbed her under the faucet with a tooth brush. The paint and primer came right off easily, though in the details there were a few little specs left (a better brush would probably get them out, through.)
Oh and if you don't want your skin to get chalky and dried, gloves are recommended. <3
In conclusion, I've never used any other stripping material but I can't imagine anything else being better. (Unless you have a plastic mini or some conversion stuff) It literally took 10 minutes total to get all three minis completely cleaned up. They look brand new. :)
Posted 19 February 2011 - 09:09 PM
As to the question about Goof-Off, there are products out there with similar names. Goof-Off is one, Goo-Gone is another. They are very different. I know someone who uses Goof-Off to remove wax residue from Ukrainian Easter eggs, and it wipes clean with no residue. I tried Goo-Gone for the same process, and it removed the dye and left an oily residue behind.
I have not tried either as a paint stripper, but have something hand to test it on. Just tested Goof-Off and it worked well. I used a Q-tip to rub off some stubborn paint that survived my other attempts. (Un-Cure and brake fluid) Will try soaking the mini in it next.
Posted 19 March 2012 - 01:46 PM
I preferred it to brake fluid as I was living in a rental TH then an apartment, with 3 cats & a dog then a young child around, and didn't want to risk a caustic fluid. It also smelled decent.
I recall that the glue holding the models together generally came off as well as the paint, but depending on how many coats had been done in the first place, I want to say 15min-4hrs took care of everything, with minimal scrubbing before/during a water rinse.
Of course, this was back in 04-06, so I see there's plenty more enviro-friendly options out now, I may have to try depending on how many of my Reaper Pro Paint models have to be re-done after moves & battle damage.
Posted 19 March 2012 - 02:29 PM
I've been using some stuff I got from the dollar store near me. It's called L.A.'s Totally Awesome Orange All Purpose Degreaser. Costs about a buck a bottle, and works on metal, plastic, and resin (be careful with resin though, it softens in this stuff slightly, but when dry, it hardens again). 50/50 with water will strip primer and paint in a 12-hour soak, though I usually do 24 to make sure I can get the primer out of the details as well. Just soak, then toothbrush clean. Works great.
Image attached of the bottle, though it's small.
Just a not on this stuff... My mom, who is 75, was using this to clean something in the sink and passed out from the fumes! Be carefull when working with this stuff!
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Posted 27 August 2012 - 03:48 PM
Here's my question though...I jacked up one of my new Bones minis, and was thinking of stripping it. Has anyone tried stripping a Bones mini yet, and if so, with what?
(And yes, I know the easiest solution would be to just go buy a new one. I'm actually looking at this as something of an experiment.)
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Posted 27 August 2012 - 09:01 PM
Posted 31 August 2012 - 10:21 PM
Sure you can, but remember that the minis original paintjob isn't like the acrylic paint you'll be using.
Is it important to strip a painted plastic mini of paint before repainting it? If just want to make a couple of small additions to a plainted plastic mini, can I leave the old paint on and just wash and dry it before painting on it?
- Prepainted minis often have a LOT of detail buried beneath a millimeter or two of plastic like paint.
- Plastic like paint "might" not take thinned paints or washes as well as a primed surface..
- Those touch ups will be just as vulnerable as any normal paint job so dumping them all into a "PPM mini bin" might not be an option.
One trick for PPM is using permanent markers rather than paint tp tweak PPMs. Last longer with rough handling and can be done right at the game table so when the DM throws down 10 Yellow Scarves orc raiders that no one can tell apart, just grab the markers and bam! A few get different coloured kilts, a couple weapons get enameled and the boss's glowing blue sword gets represented.
Do keep the permanent markers away from the battlemat markers, JIC.
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Posted 04 September 2012 - 09:36 AM
Pure acetone for metal is so fast and awesome. I use a really stiff short bristle paintbrush to get all the little details paint out of the cracks and stuff.
Posted 01 November 2012 - 11:21 AM
Posted 01 November 2012 - 05:25 PM
I suppose acetone would work, but I preferr rubbing alcohol. It's slower, and correspondingly safer. I soak minis in a sealed jar of it overnight, then clean with running water and a toothbrush* the next day. Rubbing alcohol softens acrylic paint but does not melt it.
I wouldn't want to breathe anything that could melt plastic.
*A special, only-for-painting toothbrush that never sees the inside of a mouth.
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Posted 02 November 2012 - 04:39 PM
Posted 18 November 2012 - 06:54 PM
I do have one thing a bit different to add that's not exactly about solvent, but goes with the subject at hand. I got one of those little Wisp pocket toothbrushes and used it, and it worked great! It has a little bead of some toothpaste type stuff in the middle that you can just pop right out. Then it's a simply good little hard plastic brush much smaller than your average toothbrush, thus fitting better into many areas. It also has a great small curved plastic toothpick on the other end that will help you dig out the holes that no brush can get into. I was able to fully strip the whole mini, including chainmail, using just the Wisp.
Posted 30 November 2012 - 04:44 PM
It works on metal and plastic, strips paint and primer really well and works in about 15 minutes and its cheap. Despite that its safe on the skin and doesn't stink. I've tried loads of paint stripping techniques from Brake Fluid (horrible and dangerous) to Nitormoors Paint Stripper (really really horrid stuff)
Examples on my blog here (http://miniaturesfor...r-painting.html)
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