Thank you all so much for your patience and support!
There's so much more I want to say, but I think, "You are the reason we do this!" says it all.
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Posted by Reaperbryan on 03 July 2013 - 06:29 PM
Posted by angrygerbil on 02 September 2013 - 04:26 PM
For those of you that followed my WIP threads, here are the final pics and video of my version of Nethrymaul. In all, it took about 6-7 weeks to do everything so I am a bit worn out. Thank you for the encouragement and feedback while I took on this piece of work. The custom electronics were developed by myself using Arduino boards, the final version flash to a nano version of the board. The LED effects are each custom coded using a library I wrote to handle the effects. I did a bit of studying on the heartbeat pulse. Yes, I most shamelessly took the idea from the last scene in DragonHeart where the dragon lifted his scale to show the glowing yellow heart. I figure even Nethyrmaul once had a heart!
I hope you enjoy my work, and to the sculptor, thank you for such a beautiful piece of work. I hope I was able to live up to your expectations on how it could be painted!
Please note, I did not use photoshop to clean anything up. The only thing I adjusted was the brightness and sharpness of the entire image. If you watch the video, which is unedited and unmodified, you will see I have not make any adjustments to the model. I did play with different lighting though in a few pics just for fun!
CLOSE UP HEAD:
CLOSE UP MID:
CLOSE UP SPINE:
FUN LIGHTING WITH SMOKE!
I tried to make it all cemetary and evil like. Almost like you can smell the stench of death and decay in the air.
Posted by Darius Glenwell on 16 November 2013 - 01:13 PM
Hey folks! I finished up Wyrmgear this week for a client. Took me about 5-6 hours of work, most of it on the brass/bronze and the wings. I went with a stippling effect on the wings to make them look like canvas. I used GW Karak Stone as the base coat with a Reikland Flesh wash. Then a glaze of Ushabti Bone and a wash of Agrax Earthshade. I then started the stippling with some more of the bone, then Ivory White, Oyster White, and Skull White, and then Pure White. The metals are Ceramcoat Bronze and Pewter with several washes of Flesh, Earthshade, Nuln Oil, and highlighted with Bronze, Burnished gold, and sliver (for the brass/bronze) and Gunbolt up to Mithril Silver for the steel.
The shields are painted using GW Mordian Blue, RMSP Sky Blue and over brushed with Silver. The design on the shields was taken from a design I saw on an angel statue in our local hardware store Christmas display. I used a Micron 01 Archival Pen to draw it on.
Thanks for looking!
Posted by Nakatan on 22 May 2013 - 02:07 AM
Hello/ This is my first post here, as i paint Reaper minis not so often, although i bought almost all girls from master series. But here she is, Monique de Noir, riding her chocobo mount =)
You can vote here, if you liked this work
And here you can see closeups and detail pics
Hope you`ll like her.
Posted by Wren on 10 April 2013 - 02:22 PM
I put together a few documents related to using Bones. I've submitted these to the Craft section of the website, but as it may be a little while before Reaper has the time available to add them, Bryan suggested that I post them here.
Bones - Preparation(mould line removal, glue, putty, etc.)
Bones - The First Coat is the Difference (this document)
Painting Bones Miniatures: The First Coat is the Difference
One of the revolutionary features of Bones miniatures is that you can paint them straight out of the package. Because this is such a departure from recommendations for painting metal or resin miniatures, it is understandable that this feature raises questions and concerns for painters unfamiliar with Bones. Painters familiar with other types of miniatures will find that there are some differences in how the first coat of paint behaves, or that there are painting techniques or substances that require a little tweaking to use as a first coat on Bones figures.
The Bones material is a little hydrophobic, meaning that it tends to repel water. Paint diluted with water, sometimes even just a little water, may display a tendency to bead up or pull away from crevices or higher raised areas. The more water added to the paint, the greater this effect. The first coat of paint applied to the surface can also take a little longer to dry than usual.
The image on the left is a Bones figure straight out of the blister, the one on the right is a primed Dark Heaven metal miniature. Each was painted with a brushstroke of Master Series Walnut Brown paint of various dilutions. From right to left: undiluted; 1:1 paint water ratio; heavily diluted. On the Bones figure, the stripes painted with diluted paint display beading and pulling away, but the stripe painted with undiluted paint covers smoothly with clean edges.
Once you apply a first coat of paint, primer or other appropriate surface preparation to a Bones miniature, you can freely use paint of any dilution and the full array of painting techniques!
Painters who prefer to use thinned base coats, those who like to start with a dark wash over white primer, and those who use black or custom coloured primer need not despair! The following information will help you find ways to tweak your preferred techniques to work with the Bones material. It also includes information about brands of primer, paint and other substances that are known to work or not work well with Bones, and tests of the utility and durability of certain of these products on Bones.
Slightly Thicker Paint Will Not Obscure All the Sculpted Details
For years painters have been reading tips and tutorials that exhort them to thin their paints so as not to obscure the detail sculpted into their figures, and to obtain a better quality paint job. While it’s definitely the case that using excessively thick paint can affect detail and paint quality, I think it is also true that some people are worrying too much about this in regards to painting Bones.
Reaper Master Series and Master Series HD are produced with a consistency pretty close to ideal for base coats. Several other miniature paint lines are produced in a similar consistency, or require only a small amount of water to reach the correct consistency. Two or three layers of such paint will not clog up all the detail on your model.
Also, remember that when you paint metal or resin miniatures, you normally paint over a coat of primer. One layer of undiluted paint on a Bones miniature is equivalent in thickness (if not thinner) than one or two coats of primer on a metal or resin figure.
The picture above is of four Bones bases. The tiny text relief sculpted into the bottom of these is a perfect way to test whether paint coats obscure small detail. Each of these bases was given four coats of a substance, and then brushed over with a paint wash to bring out the detail. (The bottles of paint and primer used in this test were fairly fresh, no more than a year or two old.)
From left to right, the bases were coated with four coats of undiluted Master Series Pure White, four coats of undiluted Master Series White Primer, and four coats of undiluted Master Series Brush-On Sealer. I prepared a second base with the Brush-On Sealer as the wash didn’t quite turn out on the first. The word ‘Miniatures’ has lost a little detail on the base coated with four undiluted coats of paint, but apart from that both it and the primer coated base still have excellent detail. The text is still mostly legible on the bases coated with Brush-On Sealer, but some detail has been obscured.
Wash Bones Figures Before Painting
Many people find that the paint is less likely to bead up if the figure has been washed. Also, if you’ve had your figure out of the blister for a while, or you’ve handled it to remove mould lines or otherwise prepare it, you should clean it before painting, as it probably has dust and skin oils on it that may repel paint or cause paint to chip off after it has dried. All you need to clean it is some dishwashing liquid and an old toothbrush. Give it a scrub, and then rinse it really well to get off all the soap. Let it dry before painting. (You can hurry up the drying with a hairdryer set on low.)
Black Primer? Custom Colours? Paint One Coat of Paint over the Entire Figure First!
Some painters prefer to paint over black or gray primer. Others start with a primer of a particular colour to speed up painting units. For example, you could paint a coat of khaki on a unit of modern army figures and be half way finished painting their uniforms. One way to get the same effect as a dark wash over white primer on Bones is to first apply an all-over coat of white paint, followed by a dark wash. (Keep reading for other ways to do washes directly on Bones.)
Some Primers Work on Bones
Traditional metal or resin miniatures need to be primed before any paint is applied. Paint applied over bare metal does not adhere well, and rubs off with even light handling. Primer etches into the metal on a microscopic level. Paint adheres well to primer, so using it forms a stronger bond. Bones figures do not suffer from this issue! Acrylic paint painted directly onto the Bones surface is as durable, if not more durable, than if you use paint over primer on Bones.
If you still prefer to use primer, Reaper’s Brush-On Primer works well on Bones, and is available in black and white.
Another product people sometimes ask about is gesso. Fine arts painters use gesso to prepare canvases for painting. Some people have experimented with liquid gesso as a primer for miniatures, Bones and otherwise. People have reported it working in terms of creating a surface that you can paint thinned paint over. Reports vary as to how durable the material is, so it may not be the best choice for miniatures that are going to be handled.
For those who prefer to use spray primer, the best option is to use an airbrush to apply a coat of acrylic paint to the Bones figure. Reaper Master Series paint thins well with Golden or Liquitex Airbrush Medium, and maintains its strong adhesion, though I have found that adding airbrush medium does noticeably increase the drying time of the paint.
Aerosol spray primers and some spray paints can have some issues with Bones (and with other plastics). The chemicals in some of these primers and paints do not react well with Bones. The main effect seems to be that the primer never completely cures, remaining tacky to the touch. Some will also fail to form a bond with the Bones material.
The following is a list of aerosol paints and primers that people on the Reaper forums have reported testing on Bones. Please consider the list just a guide. The best idea is to test your chosen spray by using it on a small Bones figure you don’t care about a lot. After you give the spray time to cure, carefully look over the figure to make sure the chemicals in the spray haven’t reacted with the Bones material to melt or otherwise damage it. If not, test the primer surface by touching it to see if it stays too tacky to paint over. Also, flex parts of the figure to make sure the primer doesn’t crack.
Note: Some people have successfully used Krylon primer, and possibly other spray primers that some people have reported as problematic. And other people have reported problems with primers that some felt worked well. One difference seems to be that a light spray rather than a heavy coating is more likely to minimize tackiness. Environmental factors such as temperature and humidity are also always a big variable with any spray product.
Recommended aerosol spray primers and paints:
Army Painter white and coloured primers
Krylon Dual Paint + Primer
Duplicolor Sandable – slight tackiness possible
Rust-oleam Painter’s Touch Ultra Cover 2x – slight tackiness possible
Problem aerosol spray primers and paints:
Krylon white primer – doesn’t bond, stays tacky
Testors Enamel flat black – stays tacky
Walmart Valu flat white – stays tacky
Krylon Primer red-brown – stays tacky
Use a Medium to Thin Your Paint or Make a Wash
Water is the element in thinned paint that causes it to bead up on the Bones surface. If you try thinning your paint with a dilutant other than water, you may be able to create a mix that is closer to the consistency you like to paint with. Depending on what you use, you can even create something translucent enough to act as a wash or glaze directly on the Bones.
Mediums designed to work with acrylic paints are good products to try. Examples are matte medium, glazing medium, airbrush medium. Reaper’s Brush-On Sealer can be used this way. Note that many of these products are a little less fluid than water, so they may not dramatically change the consistency of the paint (it’ll still feel a little thick rather than watery, but it will look a lot more transparent). You can also test adding just a drop or so of water to your mix of paint and medium to see if you can get closer to the consistency you prefer.
I diluted some Master Series Bone Shadow with various mediums to make washes. From left to right, the products are listed below.
Master Series Brush-On Sealer: I added one drop of water to a large drop of paint and several drops of Sealer. Worked well.
Liquitex Matte Medium: A thick product. I added a drop of water. Beads up too much to work well for a wash.
Liquitex Glazing Medium: Another thick product, I added a drop of water to my mix. Took longer to dry than the others. Did not sit in crevices well enough to work well for a wash. Very shiny finish.
Folk Art Glass & Tile Medium: Applied well, dried quickly. Even application of the colour.
Delta Ceramcoat All-Purpose Sealer: Worked decently, seems a bit more inclined to pool in the crevices with less colouring on the surfaces. Shiny finish.
ADDEDUM (not pictured)
Golden Acrylic Flow Release (undiluted): Applied well. Took a little while to dry. Shiny finish.
Reaper Flow Improver: Applied well. Took a little while to dry. Finish is shiny in areas where wash pooled.
Use a Medium as a Primer
Because of how well acrylic based products adhere to the Bones material, it is also possible to use mediums as a primer alternative. Once dry, you can paint over them using thinned paint. These are applied by brush, or possibly with an airbrush.
I tested a number of different brush-on products on some Bones Cave Trolls. These were straight out of the package and had not been cleaned. After the products dried, I applied a thin coat of paint to see how it behaved over each product.
Reaper Master Series Brush-On Primer: Exhibited slight pulling away from some high or curved surfaces, though generally it just required running the brush over that section again to establish coverage. Dried quickly.
Reaper Master Series Brush-On Sealer: No significant beading. Dried quickly. Paint was less durable than with the other products, see the durability testing section for more details and pictures.
Golden Airbrush Medium: Bubbled a bit when applied, thin enough to pool a bit in depressions. Took more than 40 minutes to dry. This product works well if you use a drop or three to thin paint down for a base coat, although it does increase the drying time slightly. Due to it drying time, this is not the best choice as a primer alternative or for thinning washes that will be applied directly over Bones.
Liquitex Matte Medium: Somewhat thick. Minor beading and pulling away. Significant beading when thinned with water. Dried quickly. When paint was applied, there were still some mild occurrences of paint pulling away from higher/curved areas.
Liquitex Glazing Medium: Pretty thick consistency. Dried fairly quickly. The paint coat still beaded a little.
Folk Art Glass & Tile Medium: Dried fairly quickly. Paint went on quite nicely. Also works on metal miniatures.
Delta Ceramcoat All-Purpose Sealer: Dried quickly. The paint layer exhibited slightly pulling way.
Folk Art Blending Gel: Extremely thick. Beaded up too much to use. Not pictured as it worked too poorly to continue to the testing stage.
Speed Paint Drying with a Hairdryer
Whether on a Bones or metal miniature, if you find that your paint is taking too long to dry, you can speed up the drying by using a hairdryer on the low setting on the paint. If the paint you’re drying is a wash, you should let it dry naturally for a little bit, or you risk blowing the paint out of the crevices and depressions you want to darken.
Testing the First Coats for Durability
Once you get your paint applied, you want to make sure that it stays there. In my experiments, the most durable Bones miniatures are those where the first coat applied to the miniature is undiluted Master Series paint. Several of the other substances I tested were pretty close in durability, but it should be noted that there were a few that performed poorly.
I painted these ghosts in August 2012. They accompanied me to Gen Con and Pax Prime 2012, stored loose with some unpainted Bones in a plastic container I carried in my backpack. Their travels included a six hour car ride and return plane trip. At the conventions they were handled extensively by dozens upon dozens of people, including being tossed on tables. The paint jobs were stressed pretty much equally through the Gen Con trials. The ghost painted only with Reaper Master Series paint was handled a lot more than the others during the Pax Prime trials.
The ghost sculpt has some thin and thus particularly bendy areas, most notably on the hood and where it meets the tombstone. I flexed these parts by hand repeatedly to additionally stress the paint. Unfortunately I chose poor colours to easily be able to see all the damage in the photos.
After the first coat I used painting techniques of thinned layers and washes with no difficulty and with the same effect on each of the miniatures. From left to right the first coat on each miniature was as follows.
Undiluted Reaper Master Series Paint: Displayed the least damage during the Gen Con trials. Following Pax, has some chips at the flex point on the hood and near the tombstone. Was handled a lot more than the other figures.
Reaper Master Series Brush-On White Primer: A few very small chips at the flex points, and some paint has scraped off a few sharp protruding areas. (Edge of the hood, finger tips on one hand.)
Dupli-Color Sandable White Primer Spray: The unpainted base stayed slightly tacky to the touch for weeks after priming. The figure has several small areas where paint was scraped off, but only one chip on a flex point.
Testors Dullcote Spray: This product created a good surface for painting, but performed very poorly in the paint durability tests, and I would not recommend using it as a primer substitute if you plan to use your Bones for gaming. Chips formed on the major flex points early in the Gen Con testing, and the paint has flaked off extensively from there. The figure also has some small areas of scraping damage, but those are no more notable than on the Brush-On Primer or Dupli-Color figures.
I wanted to perform a similar test with the other surface preparation products I tried. First I painted on an additional coat or two of paint. Then I placed the figures loose in a plastic box with some other Bones, a wooden, MDF and plastic base, and a metal figure. After wrapping the box in a towel secured with rubber bands, I put it in my dryer on the air setting for 10 minutes or so. The green painted areas on each figure are those that were painted over the primer alternatives. The brown painted areas are Master Series Paint directly on the Bones surface. (These were part of tests for methods to remove mould lines.) The brown areas on each exhibit very little damage. Some have none, some have a few small chips or scrapes. (However it should be noted the brown area of this sculpt has far fewer surface protrusions than where the green was painted.)
From left to right: Reaper Master Series Brush-On Primer White; Reaper Master Series Brush-On Sealer; Golden Airbrush Medium; Liquitex Matte Medium.
Three of the four show pretty similar levels of damage. The figure painted with Brush-On Sealer as a primer displays the most paint damage of all figures tested in this series.
From left to right: Liquitex Glazing Medium; Folk Art Glass & Tile Medium; Delta Ceramcoat All-Purpose Sealer.
Damage levels are pretty similar to the better performers above. The Folk Art Glass & Tile Medium and Liquitex Glazing Medium performed the best of the seven products tested. (The Folk Art Glass & Tile Medium performed better in terms of acting as a primer, and is inexpensive, so would be my recommendation between those two.)
Posted by Corporea on 25 June 2013 - 06:50 PM
Here she is!
I sculpted the base. The WIP is here in my running thread. I had a lot of fun with this one. C&C always welcome!
(I think I will take it to a competition, so if it needs a lot of work, let me know!)
Posted by Robert the Red on 25 November 2013 - 09:56 PM
I just wanted to send a big thank you out to the folks at Reaper.
Last Sunday my home was destroyed by a tornado that struck Central Illinois. Fortunately the dogs and I made it to the basement in time, but when we made it out of the basement there was nothing left of the house, not even part of a wall remained standing. The entire neighborhood was pretty much demolished. Thankfully everyone nearby was accounted for.
I mentioned to one of my friends from work that the only things I really wanted to recover were my computer hard drives for all the documents and pictures and my Bones miniatures if possible. She knew how excited I was about the first kickstarter and she contacted Reaper, explaining what happened.
Today I received a duplicate of my KS order as well as some other items thrown in. It is unbelievable! I know its silly to get so excited over some little plastic figures, but your kindness and generosity is moving.
To everyone at Reaper: Thank you SO SO much!!!!!
Posted by naponatom on 15 October 2013 - 03:51 PM
Sorry for the quality (my scanner is broken) but here it is:
Posted by Darius Glenwell on 06 July 2013 - 06:32 PM
Hey folks. Been awhile since I've posted anything again. Been working on commissions for Center Stage Miniatures and private clients. However I was able to get the new Bones River Troll finished this week! So I thought I'd share him with ya since I haven't seen one posted yet. I know one person was working on him, but I'm not sure if he was done yet.
Any way here he is!
His back scales basecoat was Ceramcoat Deep River Green. Then a wash of GW Drakenhof Nightshades (dark blue wash). Then I started highlighting up using yellow in the Deep River Green. His chest, belly and underside of his arms are in this order; Basecoat: Ceramcoat Leaf Green, Wash of dark blue and GW Agrax Earthshade. Reestablish the basecoat. Start adding some Oyster white to the basecoat as first highlight. I made the paint as transparent as possible and really blended the colors together as best as I could. I kept adding oyster white to the mix until I was using straight oyster white.
His clubs basecoat was GW Bestial Brown, followed by a wash of agrax earthshade. Highlighted with several browns. Skraag brown, snakebite leather, bubonic and then rotting flesh with skull white as the highest highlight. Leathers were Scorched Earth (basecoat) then highlighted up with some Ceramcoat Golden brown. The fur is scorched earth with overbrushing of bestial brown, snakebite leather, vomit brown, and rotten flesh. The skull is bestial brown, oyster white and skull white. The head is scorched earth, RMS rosy flesh mixed with sky blue. I kept highlighting the sky blue with some more rosy flesh until I got the desired look I wanted. His hair is black with bright grey highlights. The underside of his wrap is Scorched Earth, with Golden Brown as the next highlight. I then added in more white into the golden brown for the following highlights. The scales of his wrap are, scorched earth, bestial brown, skraag brown, deathclaw brown, bubonic brown, rotting flesh, and then a touch of white on the very edges. Teeth and claws are bestial brown, ushabti bone, oyster white and skull white. I used tentacle pink for the gum line around the teeth. The base is black with overbrushing of charcoal, charcoal+bright grey, bright grey, skull white. Then I glued on some GaelForce 9 marsh lands and dead static grass mixture.
Hope you like him! I'm looking forward to seeing the looks on my gaming friends faces when they see him on the table.
Posted by dks on 29 May 2013 - 06:21 PM
Here is my take on the Bones-exclusive model 77094 Trista.
Patrick Keith sculpted her, from concept art by Tim "Talin" Collier.
She was part of a stretch goal for the Bones Kickstarter. You will be able to buy this figure only in Bones form ... at least until the Reaper folks decide to release her in metal, too.
When I was at Reaper HQ in October 2012 for the annual autumn artists' gathering, I got a metal master (a first-generation copy of the putty sculpture) and painted the face and hair. Then 6 months passed. I resumed painting her at ReaperCon last month, finished all but the basing while was there, and did the basing when I got back home.
The stylized wolf-face shield is sculpted on the figure, but the knotwork designs on the shield and tabard are freehand. The shield was a separate piece but I attached it and sculpted straps using greenstuff.
I painted her as a Scandinavian-looking blonde in white-enamelled armor -- the "White Wolf" -- but I also considered "Red Wolf" and "Black Wolf" color schemes. I look forward to seeing other painters' interpretations.
[Edit 5/30/13: Note that this is a painted pewter figure (metal master), not a painted Bones figure.]
She won a gold award in the painting contest at KublaCon last weekend (San Francisco Bay Area).
Wayne Rogers, who runs the KublaCon painting events, switched the contest to the Open style of judging a few years ago, so there were other golds awarded this year, along with silvers and bronzes. Wayne runs a great show at KublaCon -- paint and take, seminars, paint contest. Come check it out if you're ever out here for Memorial Day weekend.
KublaCon is also a "regional qualifier" for the Crystal Brush painting competition that takes place at AdeptiCon, so the best-in-show winner at KublaCon wins a plane ticket to AdeptiCon. The last two years, Laszlo Jakusovszky (creator and star of the "Hot Lead" painting-instruction DVDs, and my fellow Reaper MSP Medalist) won top honors at KublaCon, but he didn't enter this year. This year's winner was David Diamondstone, newly moved to this area from Wisconsin, with his outstanding Ar-Finiel female archer. Congratulations to David, and good luck at Crystal Brush next year!
Posted by Cassu on 09 July 2013 - 09:39 PM
Finally finished my Laurana from Learn to Paint Kit 2:
Posted by angrygerbil on 07 August 2013 - 01:34 PM
Hi there. I've never been on the Reaper forums before so this is my first dabbling with sharing my Reaper paintings. This thread, of course, is about Nethyrmaul, the painting of it, and the design and coding of the lighting system I have engineered for it. This is still a work in progress and thus far has taken me about 30 hours to paint and code. Regardless, I would like to show my process when painting and how I do create some concept art in photoshop to nail down how I intend to paint each section before I actually paint it.
I would like some constructive feedback. As mentioned, I've never really shared my paintings outside of a facebook or a few friends of mine so this is a bit new to me. I hope you like my work.
Here is a video of the miniature lighting system I developed. I will be pushing my code to the arduino Nano once the wiring is cemented in with Milliput, and I will then install the Arduino Nano into the base with a wall-wart plug in on the back. Once completed, you will see no wires at all!
Here is the concept art and palette I designed.
Here is Nethyrmaul The Unpainted with the light show.
I am changing out red for amber once the shipment comes in from china.
Different view of the wiring.
To carve the channels for the optics, I went up the backside of the leg with a burning hot nail.
First application of my scales design.
Full process of painting the scales on a leg.
I do not use dry brushing. Each scale is uniquely painted using 5 different colors.
Here is a snapshot of just his head with the Lizard eye concept art from the first pic in my thread.
Side pic of mostly painted Nethyrmaul.
The start of the torn wing. The wings alone will take me 2-3 days per wing.
Full frontal pic. Wings and claws are not yet done, nor is the lower jaw. Where is his Tongue!! Guess it was kidnapped by hill folk, never to be seen again. Best day ever.
Nethyrmaul The Almost Mostly Painted, in the dark, with lighting. I did some cursory testing with my lighting system just to see how the colors I chose play with the animated lighting. Keep in mind, the light that will be in his chest will pulse like a heartbeat (amber colored...inspired from that DragonHeart flick from ages ago). The underbelly glows in and out a bright green, and so will his mouth at varying intervals.
I can't wait until I'm done!!
Posted by bojesphob on 24 June 2013 - 10:01 AM
I figured that with all of the stress you guys have been under, and all of the time you've been putting in, that you guys deserve a big THANK YOU for doing this kickstarter and getting the minis out! I just got my Vampire + Kaladrax + Nethyrmaul, and even though I haven't had a chance to go through all of them yet, I've opened both Kaladrax and Nethyrmaul (and subsequently can't get them back in the box LOL) and they are AWESOME! As I have time this afternoon at work while I'm actually trying to do something, I'm going to go through and look at the other minis in the Vampire, but seriously, when I saw this:
this morning, I was like a kid opening Christmas gifts!
So, again, thank you guys for the hard work you've been doing! You definitely made my day today! (hopefully it's ok to post this here, mods, if you feel it should be moved, let me know and I'll repost it in the proper area)
Posted by Corporea on 09 March 2013 - 10:30 AM
Here he is! The grayscale troll, aka "I'm still in Kansas!" The colors are pure white, reaper pro blue black and vallejo dark gray.
I'll probably still fiddle with some of the shadows and highlights-the skull still doesn't show up well in the photo. If anyone spots anything to fix please let me know.
I sculpted the base (except for a few small rocks) and the bat is my favorite part!
Posted by Jen on 31 October 2013 - 07:36 PM
Finished this guy last week. I got a lot of feedback and pointers from other painters to get him in as good a shape as he is, so thanks to everyone who helped me out!
Posted by naponatom on 23 September 2013 - 07:34 PM
Well, since you guys promised to behave, and since it's 5 minutes until quitting time so TPTB won't see that I posted this for two more days...
It's kind of an easy one, I think.
I know!! I Know!!
It is BatBugs, our hero!!!!
Posted by dks on 03 December 2013 - 03:21 AM
I've played in home campaigns and in organized play campaigns (Living Greyhawk, Living Forgotten Realms, Pathfinder Society), but I'm usually the guy with an unpainted metal figure on the table. Even when I'm using a painted figure, it's a figure that I painted for some other purpose and is "close enough" to represent my character. In Living Greyhawk, I used a Warhammer elf to represent my main character throughout the character's 16-level career ... and then I sculpted a figure of her for Reaper. (That's this figure: link to Forum post.)
Now I've decided to customize and paint miniatures specific to my characters in Pathfinder Society, so I've created this thread to show them off.
First up: Thaalo.
(Character build: fighter / sorcerer / dragon disciple, total level 7.)
He's an Ulfen ("Scandinavian") human, but his parents raised him in the desert land of Osirion ("Egypt"), so his skin is tanned and freckled. He generally fights unarmed but carries a bow (for ranged attacks) and a longsword (for dealing slashing damage).
The base figure is 60005 Arael, half-elf cleric (link), a nice lightly-armored figure with the lanky build, stern face, and long hair that I had in mind for Thaalo. I removed the sword from the figure's hand and sculpted a cestus (spiked boxing-glove) over the stump. I cut away most of the existing scabbard (at the left hip) and turned it into a pouch, but later decided to add a sheathed sword... on his right hip. The sword, bow, and quiver are from Reaper weapon packs; I put some putty over the blade of the sword to make a scabbard, and then glued the weapons into place. Other conversions: remove the pointy ears and patch the hair, add "Nordic" braids, make his eyes a little less deeply set, and add putty over the boots -- basically just sculpt them thicker. (The boots got compressed during the moldmaking and casting processes, and looked a little fragile. Now the figure should be more durable.)
Conversions took about 6 hours in total.
The priming and painting also took about 6 hours -- with a disproportionate amount on the face and hair. But I like the facial expression that I achieved, and I painted scales on his neck/jawline and left hand, since dragon disciples develop tough scaly skin.
Thanks for looking,